original post "revisit the varieties of Ethiopian coffee part.1 (Kudhume, Wolisho, Dega, Illubabor 1974, Kurume, 1274)" at 22-June-2018
Reading Getu Bekele and Timothy Hill’s new book, A Reference Guide to Ethiopian Coffee Varieties, has provided me with a fresh perspective on Ethiopian cultivars (Kudos to Counter Culture Coffee and G Board Trading PLC for the excellent work).
Here, I’m revisiting some Ethiopian coffees I’ve tasted in the past:
A. Hama Nat. Sundried: Kudhume, Wolisho, Dega (2016 Sept 19)
I just find out my earliest record of specific Ethiopian varieties dates back to 2016 (before that, everything was simply labeled "Ethiopian Heirloom"). I had this at Merriweather in New York; the beans were from Counter Culture Coffee (it seems they’ve been working on this project for at least two years).
Origin: Ethiopia, SNNPR, Gedeb/Kochere, Hama Cooperative
Elevation: 1900–2400 masl
Varietal: Kudhume, Wolisho, Dega
Process: Sun-dried
Official Notes: Dried blueberry, raspberry, silky.
Personal Notes: Hot—dried fruit, citrus peel -> marmalade, concentrated fruit. The finish has a syrup-like sweetness. (Good Kochere is floral, but sometimes when it's too concentrated, it turns into a bitter fruit jam.)
These three varieties are classified as Ethiopian Local Landrace coffee varieties.
This category follows a specific lineage: 1. Farmers collect coffee from the wild -> 2. Cultivate and breed them -> 3. Select varieties with desirable traits -> 4. Pass them down generations and share with neighbors (the "good things are meant to be shared" concept). Based on the book's explanation, this aligns with the USDA definition of "heirloom" I mentioned before.
Three Varieties:
variety 1. Kudhume (Kudhumi in Guji):
Commonly grown in Guji and Borena; known for small cherries and disease resistance.
variety 2. Wolisho (Walichu):
Named after a local indigenous non-coffee plant due to their shared characteristics: large fruit, inconsistent yields, and an open-canopy tree structure with bronze-colored new leaves.
variety 3. Dega:
An interesting variety. According to the book, this name applies to two things: first, a plant that produces a sweet fragrance when burned (similar to roasting coffee); second, the Amharic word for "highland and cool area." True to its name, it thrives at high altitudes. It features a medium canopy and medium-sized cherries/seeds.
B. Gesha Village: Wild Gesha Illubabor 1974 (2017 May 2)
- Name：Gesha Village
- Origin：Ethiopia, SNNPR, Bench-Maji, Gesha Village Coffee Estate
- Elevation: 1900–2100 masl (Illubabor Forest
- Varietal：Heirloom Varietal, Wild Gesha (Illubabor 1974)
- Process：washed
- official note：Floral, lemongrass, ripen mango, hibiscus, candied strawberries.
- Aaron note："FLORAL (so floral it's not like drink any more), very SWEET when cold downhoneydew"
variety 4. Gesha Illubabor 1974
The book mentions Gesha Village Coffee Estate (GVCE) (p.73). Bench-Maji, where the estate is located, houses the Gori Gesha forest—the birthplace of the legendary Panamanian Gesha. GVCE explores local wild Gesha varieties for commercial use. They developed their own strains like Gori Gesha 2011 (GG) and Gesha 1931 (G31), alongside the 1974/75 CBD (Coffee Berry Disease) resistant selections.
These 74/75 selections are a massive part of the Ethiopian variety discussion, the result of decades of work by JARC (detailed in a major chapter of the book). If a variety name starts with 74 or 75 (like the 74110 I’ve mentioned previously), it comes from this project.
Based on the coffee's name, Illubabor 1974, it can be inferred that the variety was collected from the Illubabor (zone). According to the book, this batch of coffee was classified as part of the Metu-Bishari selection, which collected 76 mother tree selections in 1974. Among these, six strains were released.
Comparing information from both sources, it is highly likely that this particular strain, numbered 74110, was collected in 1974 and released in 1979. In research, this coffee exhibited CBD resistance, high-yield potential, and a short, compact shape with short internodes, small leaves and small fruits, and a new leaf green tip. It also possessed floral and citrus flavors (it seems many recent Ethiopian coffees share these characteristics (floral is jasmine), plus ginger and cane sugar sweetness).
- Name：Reko
- Origin：Ethiopia, SNNPR, Gedio, Kochere, Reko (kebeles), Reko wet mill
- Elevation: 1850 - 2200 masl
- Varietal：Kurume + mixed Heirloom
- Process：washed
- official note：Orange and rose aromatics. Black tea and brown sugar in a full, engaging cup.
- Aaron note：ROSE!! sweet! salted flower juice (cherry blossom mochi)? Black tea afterward
variety 5. Kurume (Kudhume)
Kurume was the first variety I tried to research, which led to much frustration. Before this book, I lacked proper reference tools, and most research focused on JARC selections rather than Regional Landraces. Named after the indigenous Kurume tree, it is prized in Gedeo and Guji for its small cherries and good yields. Interestingly, JARC selections like 74110 and 74112 share morphological traits with Kurume and might eventually be reclassified as "Kurume-type" varieties.
Kurume was probably the first breed I wanted to find, but it was fraught with setbacks. The reasons were simple: firstly, before the this book, I didn't have good reference books; secondly, most research articles focused on JARC's work, making this type of local landrace, domesticated by local farmers, relatively difficult to find; and thirdly, Kurume is easily obscured by the Japanese word くるめ /久留米, making it extremely challenging (I remember finding a bunch of strange things, LOL).
Kurume is classified as a regional landrace (Gedeo landrace) -> Kurume, named after the indigenous plant "Kurume tree", and is known for its small fruit and good yield. This coffee exhibits the same characteristics. This variety is currently known to farmers in Gedeo and Guji. It is characterized by its compact canopy, relatively small leaves, and green new leaves.
Another important point is that JARC varieties 74110, 74112, 74148, and 74158 share the same morphological characteristics as Kurume, and they are very likely to be reclassified as Kurume type varieties. (Would anyone be interested in doing a genetic classification?)
"Another interesting takeaway: JARC’s 74110, 74112, 74148, and 74158 all share morphological traits with Kurume, meaning they could likely be reclassified as Kurume-type varieties. (Anyone up for doing some genetic sequencing? ;) )"
D. Nano Challa 145: Heirloom (improved native cultivar called "1274.") (2017 September 21)
- Name：Nano Challa 145
- Origin：Ethiopia Oromia, Jimma, Gomma / Agaro ?, Nano Challa Cooperative
- Elevation: 2000 masl
- Varietal：improved native cultivar called "1274."
- Process：washed
- official note：Citrus, stone fruit & flowers.
- Aaron note：very ginger, floral, sweet, citrus, very intence!!
variety 6. 1274
I have absolutely no idea what variety this 1274 is. I've searched my literature database and only found two mentions of this variety: Nano Challa and Biftu Gudina, both from the Agaro-Goma Woreda region, both mentioning it as an optimized local variety. The Technoserve project, a program to help East African countries, was also mentioned. Currently, I have three hypothesis:
First: This is a driven from the previously mentioned 74 series, further selected and optimized through the Technoserve project, released in 2012, hence the name 1274;
Another hypothesis is: It originates from a native cultivar of this region. According to Bekele's book (p. 68), At the region (Jimma zone, Gomma Woredda, Choche, 20 km east from Agaro), people described a local landrace called Choche where is the site that Kaldi the Goat Herde are said. This variety could be an optimized descendant of this local strain;
My final guess: The "Challa" in the coffee name "Nano Challa" refers to a variety itself.
It's categorized as JARC varieties -> Specialty group -> Walaga Specialty group varieties -> Challa. The word "Challa" is Afan Oromo and means "greater than," indicating high yield, CBD resistance, and a fruity aftertaste.
Incidentally, all Walaga Specialty group varieties share this fruity aftertaste, which can be considered a regional flavor). It's recommended to grow at high altitudes (1750-2100 masl), so its CBD resistance should be good.
Morphologically, it has long, drooping main branches and relatively large internodes.
The mother tree was collected in 1998 in Haru Wearda, Sotelo village. The map below shows a fascinating area where plants grow in valleys; the southern side of the village is the source of the Birbir Wenz River, at a very high altitude.
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