Theobroma cacao ch.5 Nicalizo, Nicaragua, Signature collection 70% Heirloom Cacao batch650 -Castronovo chocolate [Heirloom Cacao II].

Nicalizo, Nicaragua, Signature collection 70% Heirloom Cacao batch650

來自 Castronovo 的原生種認證可可巧克力，趁著2/14 又買了一支（之前那支是 Belize (R1）．然後發現在我前一篇文章裡，根本沒有解釋 heirloom 是什麼東西（雖然一般翻譯是原生種），只說了我無法抵抗原生種做出來的東西～

根據美國農部 USDA 對於 heirloom varieties 定義為：『Varieties whose germplasm has been conserved through the practice of retaining and passing down 1) seed or 2) vegetative propagules from generation to generation. The germplasm may be of significance to a specific region, community, culture or historic time period.』L1

另外認證機構 Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund 解釋：『Heirloom cacao are the diamonds of cacao — cacao trees and beans endowed with a combination of historic, cultural, botanical, geographical, and most importantly flavor value. They are the foundation of the best tasting chocolate.』

綜合兩者，heirloom varieties  是一個因為長時間生長在一個區域，經過長時間的演化，這品種的基因反應了一個區域的環境，社區，文化，還有歷史．基因上 heirloom varieties 更是某種對應環境而得到的美好平衡～

以前剛學到的時候無法很好理解其中的意義，直到自我研究讀了相關文章 ( Motamayor, 2008 PloSOne ) 才慢慢理解這個過程的特別．cacao 中的 criollo (R2 應該是一個經典的例子，想像在古典的上亞馬遜原住民文化裡（Inca culture？Isthmo-Colombian culture？還是是Mayans 幹的呢？），因為自己的神話，歷史等等各種文化因素，所以偏好（=選拔）內部白淨，外面長一堆骨脊的可可， 經過幾百年的篩選（=演化）最後留下的就是反應這一切人為偏好加上自然環境選擇壓力下，而出現的 criollo 種！對了，另一個 national 這個也很故事性的品種也是另一個很好的例子 (r3)


好了，回到 Nicaragua 這裡

比起以前寫過很多的可可原生大國（Ecuador, Peru, Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela）Nicaragua 地理位置較北，這裡的 cacao 應該是和貝里茲一樣，由居住在這個區域的馬雅人由上亞馬遜區域帶（交易？）過來的．

不過這 不是這個農場 Ingemann 的case, 根據 Ingemann Fine Cocoa 農場官網，他們首先定義了六種（還是九種？）Nicaragua 可可品種，分別是 Chuno, Rugoso, Nicalizo, John, Barba, Medalla, Tenor, Nugu, 和 O'Payo ．分析之後發現，都隸屬於經典分類法裡面的 Trinitario - Acriollados （混血種 Trinitario 比較具有 criollo 特徵的）- R4．

Ingemann 位於 Nicaragua北邊 Jinotega (Dept), Bocay, El Cua, La Dalia
這個區域西邊，就是以前喝過的Nicaragua coffee 生產的熱區 R5 R6 R7

翻了以前留下來的資料，我竟然有存留其中一些品種的訊息：（source: the C-spot）

Chuno:  One in a series of hybrids from Nicaragua analyzed by geneticists in 2011 to test positive for appreciable Criollo germplasm. Their significance furthered by being the possible grandfathers to Criollo trees in Venezuela’s famed valleys of cacáo.  That some stand as outgrowers in a small cluster of rather isolated groves in the northern part of Nicaragua has helped those particular ones avoid the propagation campaigns of breeders that largely replaced the Cacao Real (Royal Cacao of Criollo heritage) elsewhere in the country. And yet, like water, this type can also be found practically all around too. Which attests to its hardiness.

Nicalizo / Nicaliso:  One in a series of hybrids from Nicaragua analyzed by geneticists in 2011 to test positive for appreciable Criollo germplasm. Their significance furthered by being the possible grandfathers to the Criollo trees in Venezuela’s famed valleys of cacáo.  That they some stand as outgrowers in a small cluster of rather isolated groves in the northern part of Nicaragua has helped those particular ones avoid the propagation campaigns of breeders that largely replaced the Cacao Real (Royal Cacao of Criollo heritage) elsewhere in the country. And yet, like water, this type can also be found practically all around too. Which attests to its hardiness.

這兩支都是 2011 年Nicaragua 為了避免失去寶貴的原生種所做的努力．基因學家分析並且證明了這個區域的可可品種有其獨特的價值．他們的基因有著明顯的 Venezuela criollo 特徵．

根據名字上的線索，這支巧克力就是利用 Nicalizo / Nicaliso: 做成的．

USDA 基因報告也暗示了這是一支 Trinitario，大約 1/4 criollo 還有 3/4 的 Amelonado (典型 forastero 之一) 

Amelonade 是2008年那篇文章下（第五段），用genetic markers 定義出的品種之一．字的意義是 “melon-shaped” 瓜型．外表特徵為 深紫色子葉和充實（圓鼓鼓）的豆莢．基因上非常接近 Guiana種，建議了Amelonade 可能原生在東亞馬遜．其重要性是大部份非洲的可可樹都有她的血統，而且被稱為 ‘West African Amelonado’ （但是非洲的這些樹種其實都帶著大量的其他品種基因）風味特徵是 大膽而不優雅，不複雜，有著強勢的苦澀味，土，咖啡，皮革，木材，香料肉桂，香料香草，有時候會發現紅色水果

至於 Nicalizo 的風味，農場 Ingemann 給出了：葡萄，葡萄乾，可可，順口，還有木頭．

然後 Castronovo 對製成巧克力之後的這支 Nicalizo, Nicaragua, 70% Heirloom Cacao 風味描述為：
梅子，櫻桃，濃厚的奶油，烤太妃糖，有一點粉紅胡椒感，品嚐的最後有悠久的烤胡桃味．

爽爽和我品嚐，則寫下了：

聞：濃郁，激烈，果香酸
嚐：乳質感，酸！好濃郁的酸，香料味（又厚又酸）舌頭有厚實，澀味，苦，濃郁果實！
爽爽：醬油果


啊，對了

這支巧克力還拿下了一大堆獎章：

1. World Bronze Winner of the International Chocolate Awards 2017
2. Silver Winner of the International Chocolate Awards Americas & Asia Pacific Semifinals
3. 2017 (single-origin micro-batch dark chocolate)
4. Silver Winner of the Academy of Chocolate Awards 2017 (London) Dark Bean to Bar under 80% Category

雖然這不是很重要，哈哈