2019/12/28

隨寫:Friday night is cupping night (17支來自韓國的豆子)



週五晚上 (2019 Oct 18) 很開心參加了 Coffee Project NY 在 Brooklyn 的 Cupping當天的豆子
嘗試了17支豆子,然後揭開編號看看他們是什麼
回來之後仔細爬梳,發現有不少極佳的豆原,紀錄起來:

1. Finca Deborah Geisha Washed.
2. Finca Potosi, San Juan, & XO process
3. Finca El Injerto legendary Gesha
4. Finca Clara Luz Sidra
5. Ethiopia Uraga Raro Boda Wolisho, Dega
6. Panama Maunier Geisha
7. Costa Rica Cafe de Altura 수정과 (Sujeonggwa)
8. BABY BLEND 에 대해 자세히 알려드리겠습니다. 
9. Ethiopia Halo Fuafate
10. Honduras El Puente
11. 케냐 테구 Kenya Tegu
12. 파나마 호세 게이샤 Panama Jose Geisha, Jose Humberto 
13. Honduras El Limo  2019 CoE Honduras #11 Pacas
14. COSTARICA CANDELARIA GEISHA, 
15. Blue Blending, 
16. Ethiopian Cup #1 Gersi Kurume, Wolisho, and Dega 
17. Colombia Mesa Alta Anaerobic Natural


1. Panama Finca Deborah Geisha Washed.

Coffee Name: Terrior Geisha
Farm: Finca Deborah
Producer: Jamison Savage
Country: Panama
Region: Volcan, Chiriqui
Altitude: 1950m
variety: Green tip Geisha
process: washed
roaster [센터커피] Center Coffee
note: Jasmine, lemongrass, pineapple

Aaron note: (Fragr) black pepper 哈啾(washed geisha 有時候會有明顯的黑胡椒)

Finca Deborah 是 Berg Wu 2016 取的WBC title 時使用的莊園.相信台灣的咖啡人們對這個很熟悉.


2. Colombia Finca Potosi XO

Farm: Finca Potosí
Producer: brothers Luis and Rigoberto Herrera (Cafe Granja la Esperanza)
Country: Colombia
Region: Valle del Cauca
Altitude: 1600 - 2000 m
variety: San Juan
process: XO
roaster [센터커피] Center Coffee
note: plum, mango, strawberry

Aaron note: (Fragr) tropical fruit, (Aroma) 龍眼乾,dry lychee 

這支蠻有意思的,首先 Café Granja La Esperanza 莊園 是Herrera 家族所擁有的,底下又 La Esperanza, Cerro Azul, Potosi, Las Margaritas , Hawaii 等農場,Potosi 是家族1930年 從 Isreal 移民過來時的第一個農場;品種 San Juan 是一個經過改良後哥倫比亞品種(colombia var.),選拔的目標是結出較大的咖啡漿果與種子。

最後是 XO process,人們剛看到以為是採收後 green bean 放在XO酒桶 aging,我回來仔細看資料 (2018 anaerobic fermentation) 才想起來這個理解是錯的.XO 是取名字 Cognac 產業的用字,“XO” means “extra old” 在這裡意指著長時間的發酵『採收甜度超過18度的 coffee cherry 在低溫狀況下( below 25℃)經過 48 小時的長時間發酵(高糖度確保發酵狀態良好);接著在筒倉(silo-dried)裡乾燥陳化 (below 40ºC) 十天。

2018年WBC的賽事,荷蘭 Lex Wenneker 所使用的是 Finca Cerro Azul XO natural geisha,就是這個處理法.(話說這個家族的Gesha 是由 Panama Boquete 取得的“品種” &“農藝法”


3. Guatemala El Injerto legendary Gesha

Farm: Finca El Injerto
Producer: Arturo de Jesus Aguirre Escobar
Country: Guatemala
Region: Huehuetenango
Altitude: 1610 m
variety: gesha
process: washed
roaster [센터커피] Center Coffee
note: bergamot, pineapple, peach

Aaron note: (Fragr) peach, lime (Aroma) green tea. 

這支我倒是一嘗試就知道是 geisha,抓到的幾個風味都告訴我他的背景,不過沒想到是名莊園 El Injerto 的好豆子.這杯是當天我最喜歡的一支.


4. Selected by JOOYEON . “ Very first "

Farm: Finca Clara Luz
Producer: Servio Gonzalez
Country: Ecuador
Region: Loja
Altitude: 1720m
variety: Sidra
process: Natural
roaster: Momos coffee
note:
! Ecuador Taza Dorada#2

Aaron note: (Fragr) earthy (Aroma) not a lot?.

今年韓國冠軍JooYeon的好豆子,Sidra 是以前詳細介紹過的(link

『根據 collaborative coffee source 的文章,源自 Ecuador 的 Sidra 是罕見的品種(C.1 La Cinco, Ecuador - Sidra Elixr & C.2 Télescope).對葉鏽病易感,有能力適應高海拔,低氧氣的環境,植物一年生產 400g 的 parchment coffee ,雖然是一般咖啡產量的一半不到,不過還其他高海拔的優質咖啡品種比較已經偏高了.Sidra 可以在三年內長到四公尺高,樹形類似 geisha,樹枝對樹幹成45度,葉子為淺綠色,矛型.

如果Sey 的消息是正確的(找不到其他訊息來源),基因工具還回答了 Sidra到底是什麼這個問題. 之前參考的訊息都認為 Sidra 是 Ethiopian Landrace varietal』


5. 에티오피아 / 우라가 라로보다 Ethiopia Uraga Raro Boda

Farm: Raro Boda washing station

Producer: 543 smallholder farmers
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Uraga woreda, Guji region
Altitude: 1974 - 2280m
variety: Wolisho (& Dega)
process: washed
roaster: BLACKUP COFFEE co. (Agtron 62)
note: Sweet fruit flavor,ripe oranges Sweet acidity,sweet syrupy,Medium body

Aaron note: (Fragr) dry, 醬油, lily (Aroma) bitter, green

清楚標示 Ethiopian varietal 的咖啡,不錯.


6. Pure Gold project vol.11 Panama Maunier Geisha

Farm: Maunier Estate
Producer: Ruíz family
Country: Panama
Region: Boquete, Chiriqui Province
Altitude: 1600m
variety: Geisha
process: Nature
roaster: fm coffee
note: berry, cherry, peach

Aaron note: (Fragr) fried vegetables (Aroma) orange (tasting notes) 甜,berry

盲測覺得是 Panama geisha,不過這種炒菜味到底怎麼來的呢? 


7. Pure Gold project vol.12 CostaRica Cafe de Altura

Farm: Cafe de Altura
Producer:
Country: Costa Rica
Region: San Ramón (canton)
Altitude: 1200m
variety: caturra, catuai
process: anaerobic
roaster: fm coffee
note: cinnamon, sujeonggwa, apple pie

Aaron note: (Fragr) soy source, jerky (Aroma) same (tasting notes) 豬肉乾!

非常有趣的肉味,非常非常明顯.不知道是不是 anaerobic 製造出來的味道.另外一個注意到的是 tasting note 裡面的 sujeonggwa(수정과,水正果),wikipedia: 

Korean traditional cinnamon punch. Dark reddish brown in color, it is made from gotgam (dried persimmon) and ginger and is often garnished with pine nuts. The punch is made by brewing first the cinnamon and ginger at a slow boil. The solids are then removed for clarification and the remaining liquid is boiled again after adding either honey or brown sugar.

看起來咖啡會有 cinnamon,柿子,薑,松子,蜂蜜,棕糖 等等風味(雖然我一直想到肉乾)


8. BABY BLEND 에 대해 자세히 알려드리겠습니다.

Honduras Marysabel Blend 40% & Brazil Fazenda São Joao 40% & Ethiopia Halo Fuafuate 20%
roaster: Werk Roasters
note: clean, round texture, sweetness, low acidity

Farm: El Puente
Producer: Marysabel Caballero & Moises Herrera
Country: Honduras
Region: Chinacla, La Paz
Altitude: 1600 m
variety: catuai
process: washed

Farm: Fazenda São Joao
Producer: Osvaldo Bachião
Country: Brazil
Region: Nova Rezende, Sul de Minas Gerais
Altitude: 1120 - 1230m
variety: bourbon
process: natural

Farm: Halo Fuafate Washing Station
Producer:
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Gotiti, Gedeb District, Gedeo Zone
Altitude: 2050 - 2280mm
variety: heirloomprocess: natural

Aaron note: (Fragr) wash, salty, (Aroma) none, (tasting notes) some juicy


9. Ethiopia Halo Fuafate

Farm: Halo Fuafate Washing Station
Producer:
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Gotiti, Gedeb District, Gedeo Zone
Altitude: 2050 - 2280mm
variety: heirloom
process: natural
roaster: Werk Roasters
note: cranberry, milk, chocolate, plum

Aaron note: (Fragr) floral Ethiopian, (Aroma) none, (tasting notes) grain

有注意到是 Ethiopian!哈哈


10. Honduras El Puente

Farm: Finca El Puente 
Producer: Marysabel Caballero & Moises Herrera
Country: Honduras
Region: Chinacla, La Paz
Altitude: 1600 m  
variety: catuai
process: washed
roaster: Werk Roasters 
note: green apple, roasted almond, caramel

Aaron note: (Fragr) cacao, savory, (Aroma) none, (tasting notes) nutty, 油脂

超知名的 Honduras 莊園,查了新聞才注意到他們家 2015 經歷了很困難的時期,農場被 CLR 的攻擊,不過他們很快的面對這個狀況,努力的回到人們的注意,為他們加油.


11. 케냐 테구 Kenya Tegu

Farm: Tegu wash station 
Producer: Tekangu Cooperative  
Country: Kenya
Region: Karatina, Nyeri
Altitude: 1700m  
variety: SL28, SL34
process: washed
roaster: Coffee Libre 커피리브레 
note: grapefruit, raspberry, vanilla, milk chocolate (자몽, 복숭아, 라즈베리, 바닐라, 밀크초콜릿)

Aaron note: (Fragr) 乳酸?, (Aroma) none, (tasting notes) 皮,醋酸.

這支方向倒是完全錯了,還以為是乳酸發酵(有種熱的養樂多 カルピス 的印象


12. 파나마 호세 게이샤 Panama Jose Geisha

Farm: Don Pepe Estate 
Producer: Jose Humberto 
Country: Panama
Region: Boquete, Volcancito
Altitude: 2000m 
variety: Geisha
process: washed
roaster: Terarosa coffee 
note: Floral, ripe white peach, plum flavored candy, raisins, melon

Aaron note: (Fragr) perfume, milky, (Aroma) 考水果, (tasting notes) pop-up bright

看我寫下的 note 就知道自己很喜歡這支(所以用了perfume這個字眼)


13. Honduras El Limo  2019 CoE Honduras #11

Farm: El Limo
Producer: Jose Rumaldo Moreno Reyes
Country: Honduras
Region: EL CEDRAL, LAS VEGAS, Santa Barbara
Altitude: 1650
variety: Pacas
process: washed

roaster: Terarosa coffee 
note: Rich flavor of melon, apricot, honey, cinnamon
2019 CoE Honduras #11


Aaron note: (Fragr) floral, (Aroma) none, (tasting notes) jasmine, soup

喜歡這支,有明顯的茉莉花味道.


14. COSTARICA CANDELARIA GEISHA 

Farm: La Candelill 
Producer: Sanchez family (Marvin Sanchez)  
Country: Costa Rica
Region: Tarrazu
Altitude: 1750m 
variety: geisha
process:
roaster: Deep Blue Lake Coffee (딥블루레이크커피) 
note: 

Aaron note: (Fragr) 殼, (Aroma) 青, (tasting notes) bright acidity


15. Blue Blending 

Ethiopia Limu Wolenso natural 60% & Honduras Banaderos 20% & Ethiopia Limu Biftu Gudina Washed 20%
roaster: Deep Blue Lake Coffee (딥블루레이크커피) 
note: 

Farm: Ethiopia Limu Wolenso natural 60%
Producer: Wolenso washing station 
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Jimma, Limu 
Altitude: 1900m 
variety: Heirloom Ethiopian
process: natural
note: Plum, Orange, Blueberry, Strawberry, Dark Chocolate, Complexity, Heavy Body

Farm: Honduras Banaderos 20%
Producer: Hotilio Hernandez 
Country: Honduras
Region: Santiago Puringla, La Paz 
Altitude: 1800m 
variety: Catuai
process: washed 
note: Citrus, lavender, black tea, green apple, pineapple, excellent balance

Farm: Ethiopia Limu Biftu Gudina Washed 20%
Producer: Biftu Gudina co-operative 
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Keta Meduga Union, Goma, Agaro 
Altitude: 1975 - 2200m 
variety: Mixed Heirloom

process: washed
note: black berry, orange, peach

Aaron note: (Fragr) 肉骨茶, 苦 (Aroma) dark, (tasting notes) grain, 


16. Ethiopian Cup #1 Gersi 

Farm: Adorsi washing station
Producer: Gersi smallholders
Country: Ethiopia
Region: Aricha (Kebele), Yirgacheffe (Woreda), Gedeo (zone)
Altitude: 2000 - 2150m
variety: Kurume, Wolisho, and Dega
process: natural
roaster: Caffe Themselves, Seoul

note: floral, winery, strawberry jam
The Ethiopian Cup, Lot #14 Gersi smallholders, #1 $17.25/lb

Aaron note: (Fragr) soil, ferment  (Aroma) savory, berry, (tasting notes) savory, berry

‘Tree is life’.


17. Colombia Mesa Alta Anaerobic Natural

Farm: Finca El Danubio
Producer: Jose Julian Gialdo
Country: Colombia
Region: Quimbata, Quindio
Altitude: 1450m
variety: Caturra
process: Anaerobic Natural
roaster: 
note:

Aaron note: (Fragr) sun, berry  (Aroma) non (tasting notes) Ethiopian?

不知道為什麼這支讓我以為是Ethiopian 哈哈,是因為無氧自然處理法嗎?


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