2022/12/11

Bolivia Wild Forest Dark 74% - Fruition Chocolate Works at George Howell, Boston

好久沒看到有趣的巧克力了

今天在George Howell 瞄到 “Boliva Wild Forest” @@!
趕快買下來!

為什麼特別

第一:

之前看到的 wild forest cacao chocolate 通常來自Amazon river 上游、或是 Peru, Ecuador 東側,下圖品種密集那邊.應該是第一次看到 Bolivia wild forest.來自超高海拔國家 Bolivia.Beni River 大約在綠色square和橘色triangle 之間那條河西南支流.

map source: Motamayor et al. PlosOne 08

第二:

之前整理資料印象中、Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund(HCP)就有一支有類似的描述(#2 Tranquilidad Estate (wild) Beni, Bolivia

上網一查,果然就是它

在 HCP 有公佈的 cacao 分析裡面,除了一支來自Belize 100% criollo(HCP Designee #11 BFREE Private Reserve, Toledo District, Belize)之外,品種最單一的就是這支 Bolivia wild forest.而且 criollo 這幾年變得比較容易找的到,而這一支是奇妙的97.3 Boliviano

看看下圖那精美的品種分析

之前就很希望能買到這支來嘗試,還開車往北到他們工廠附近,可是次次失望.
沒想到今天在Boston George Howell 發現它.

https://tranquilidadnet.wordpress.com/

看看莊園主手上的奇妙金色 cacao,97.3 Boliviano.

下面這段是從官網節錄:

 https://tranquilidadnet.wordpress.com/2016/02/27/beniano-cacao-wild-variety/

文章非常精彩,強烈推薦閱讀原本文章


The Beniano cacao exists in isolated wild stands since thousands of years, distributed largely in man influenced forests islands called “chocolatales” alongside river forests. I became aware of this cacao in 1991 near Rurrenabaque when a T’simane women (with a little monkey in her hair) showed me wild cacao stands with tiny fruits. I understood immediately this is special, but is there a business?

Years later I learned from the Motamayor (et.al.) expedition, that took place about the same time I started, that we have a new classification of origins in the Amazon as they identified some ancestors (Urkakaos) of all cacaos on the planet. But what happened after science looked into this? Is it important to save these cacaos and for what purpose? I didn’t know that I was going to give some answers.


這品種是於1991年,Meinhardt 博士在 Amazon River 上游支流 Alto Beni river 的最上游城市 Rurrenabaque.一位玻利維雅原住民 T’simane 的女士向他展示的奇特品種(頭上還帶著一隻小猴子)

https://tranquilidadnet.wordpress.com/2016/02/27/beniano-cacao-wild-variety/

上圖這種果實的密集長法,覺得跟常見的紅色果實(一根一根垂著)很不一樣.讓我想到木瓜

Meinhardt 博士還提到了,在推廣這個品種遇到的困難,因為外型奇特特別是很小,果實數還少,甚至無法達到 ICCO standards.買家回應都是帶更大的來(他們搞不好會想,怎麼還沒熟成就採收?).最後,他決定自己小規模做成巧克力,市場反應非常好!但是怎麼樣就是無法獲得大型買家青睞(2003)

2014 當他聽到 FCIA and their Heirloom (HCP) 承認這支品種,準備前往這個活動時,他正在紐約第五大道開著 taxi (when I drove in a taxi on 5th Av. in NYC).長達25年的努力最後終於被人們看見了,那個微笑的背後應該有很多辛苦的回憶吧?

品嚐:

鼻聞:剪開,woooooooooow~ 酸果乾(桃?)光聞著就拼命流口水!!!
質感:扳斷的切面和質感,跟其他巧克力也有些不同.從斷面像黑曜石可以看出來.
口化:好奇怪!好好吃,這是什麼?
咀嚼:完全不像以前吃過的 single estate(常常是濃豔花,香料)這支我寫下強果乾.好棒!

咀嚼的一位先驅35年一直努力,到現在終於能讓我品嘗到的稀有可可,我想到以前有位前輩跟我說,Ph.D. 的 P,是 philoso φιλοσο 是古代的一種愛,當你愛一個東西(智慧,學術,宗教)愛到自己不見,自己的一切消失跟這個所愛的東西,融合為一,就是 philoso.

想想, Dr. Meinhardt 的一生,不就是對這支稀有cacao 的愛嗎?

除了這支外,希望下一次能遇到 #9 Nacional cacao, Piedra de Plata, Ecuador,高達 71.8% 的厄瓜多的驕傲,National var.

2022/12/10

var. Pluma Hidalgo


突然發現十月中在玄狐咖啡喝到的 Mexico - Union San Pedro(roaster: Square Mile coffee)咖啡品種是『Pluma Hidalgo』

這是一個我在剛開始研究咖啡品種就聽過,但是一直到現在才有機會喝到的奇妙品種.

sourec: https://flic.kr/p/AQ3Dpw

這是由typica 發展出來的墨西哥品系,當時看到對這個名字有三個方向的描述

1. Pluma Hidalgo: A “Typica” progeny first cultivated in Mexico and introduced to the area known as “Pluma” (within the Loxicha region of Southern Oaxaca).

2. Pluma Hidalgo is a small mountain community located northeast of Chacalapa, Oaxaca, in a coffee-growing region. Pluma means feather and comes from the shape created by a cloud forming at the top of the nearby hilltop. Hidalgo honors the priest by that name who played a role in securing Mexico's independence.

3. Pluma Hidalgo is a Zapotec mountain village in Southern Oaxaca at 1,300 meters elevation in the Sierra del Sur, perched on Cerro de la Pluma (Feather Hill), whose name derives from the fact that a large number of eagles used to come here to lay their eggs and would pluck their own feathers to build their nests. ‘ Hidalgo’ honours Miguel Hidalgo, a Jesuit-trained, Mexican priest and a leader of the Mexican War of Independence.

味道寫下了

聞:花蜜甜 sip:酸美

2022/06/16

幾本早期紀錄咖啡的文獻,Prosper Alpini(咖啡植物 Bon, Ban)

Alpini, Prosper


在 Columbia 藏書找最早的咖啡文獻,先是看到一本 1659 年的阿拉伯文獻

The nature of the drink kauhi, or coffe, and the berry of which it is made described by an Arabian phisitian. 作者是 أنطاكي، داؤد بن عمر (Anṭākī, Dāʼūd ibn ʻUmar)。Anṭākī, Dāʼūd ibn ʻUmar 死於 1599 所以這篇文本一定早於1599,但是這篇有英文翻譯的書出版於1659。


開頭第一個 Bun 還真的是以前阿拉伯人稱呼咖啡的用字,忘記聽誰說的,bunna, bun 是原生地稱呼咖啡植物的用字.(某個知名的自動咖啡機就用了Bunn當品牌名)阿拉伯文字完全看不懂,跳過

英文標題的 kauhi /Coffe 好像是1659 年翻譯時的用字.

印象中早期翻譯也有用 kauhi 之類的字眼.


2022/05/28

2021 COE cup of excellence 的想法

觀察了一下 2021 COE

1. 強勢莊園

雖然絕對分數最高的是 El Salvador Mileydi 的 91.68(by Ever Leonel Diaz Perez)

但是normalize以各自國家分數為表準)之後,Mexico 的 Finca Santa Cruz,和 Brazil 的 Dbarbosa Coffee – Fazenda Cachoeira 這兩個農場才是最強勢的.尤其是Finca Santa Cruz,這家莊園 2021, 2019 兩年的都破3,實在很想嘗試看看.

(2019 - 2021 破3的也只有三個批次,除了Finca Santa Cruz 之外,只有 Honduras 的 Santa Lucia