2026/01/25

關於 Memoires de l'Academie des Science 1713 裡的咖啡(2)全文 HISTOIRE DU CAFÉ. Par M. DE JUSSIEU.,與相關的挖掘

很幸運的買到了 1713 年的 Memoires de l'Academie des Science 

延續前一篇文章(1)的路徑,親手翻閱尋找超過十年的出版物,實在很幸福啊

這先記錄 Jussieu 關於咖啡文章的全文(使用 Google Translate 翻譯! 

 

記錄幾位深挖的歷史人物:

1. Mr. Gaudron, Master Apothecary of Saint-Malo

文中提到的 Gaudron 先生指的是 Jean-Baptiste Gaudron,一位在聖馬洛港口城市工作的「藥劑師大師」(Maître Apoticaire)。當 Jussieu 在巴黎從事科學研究時,Gaudron 則是連結國際貿易界和學術界的關鍵人物。

Gaudron 為 Jussieu 提供資訊。如文中所述:

    • 情報收集者:Gaudron 從外科醫生 Jean Desnoyers 那裡獲得了關於咖啡的第一手報告(Relation)。 Desnoyers 剛剛乘坐一艘聖馬洛商船從也門返回。

    • 科學聯絡人:Gaudron 意識到這則訊息的重要性,便轉寄給了皇家科學院的 Antoine de Jussieu。
起點:在 Jussieu 擁有自己的活體咖啡樹進行研究之前,Gaudron 的報告是他所能獲得的最準確的資訊。正是 Gaudron 的倡議激發了 Jussieu 對咖啡研究的深入探索。聖馬洛港 Saint-Malo:地理位置得天獨厚。聖馬洛是法國「摩卡之旅」(Second Voyage to Mocha (1711–1713))的中心。港口城市的藥劑師往往是第一批檢驗水手帶回的異國種子和植物的歐洲人。Gaudron 是聖馬洛精英階層的一員,他們資助並支持印度公司(Compagnie des Indes)的航行。這些人不僅僅是商人;他們是一群充滿好奇心的知識分子,渴望了解他們所交易的異國商品的「秘密』。透過將 Desnoyers 的筆記寄給Jussieu,Gaudron幫助咖啡從一種秘密的商業商品轉變為公開的科學研究對象。



2. Mr. Desnoyers,  a French surgeon who had recently arrived from Zedia:

Based on the historical context of the article and botanical records from that era, the full name of the surgeon is Jean Desnoyers. He was a ship's surgeon who served on the second French expedition to Mocha between 1711 and 1713. This voyage was organized by the merchants of Saint-Malo (the "Compagnie des Indes de Saint-Malo") specifically to establish direct trade with Yemen. In the text, Mr. Desnoyers refers to a French surgeon named Desnoyers who provided one of the earliest eyewitness accounts of a coffee plantation to the French scientific community. According to Jussieu's introduction, Desnoyers arrived in France shortly before 1713 from Zedia (likely a phonetic French spelling for Zebid or a similar district in the Tihama region of Yemen).

根據文章的歷史背景和當時的植物學記錄,這位外科醫生的全名是讓·德斯諾耶(Jean Desnoyers)。他是一名船醫,曾於1711年至1713年間參與了第二次法國摩卡探險。此次航行由聖馬洛的商人(「聖馬洛印度公司」)組織,旨在與也門建立直接貿易。文中提到的德斯諾耶先生指的是一位法國外科醫生,他為法國科學界提供了最早的咖啡種植園目擊報告之一。根據Jussieu 的介紹,德斯諾耶於1713年之前不久從澤迪亞 Zedia(可能是也門提哈馬地區澤比德或類似地區的法語拼寫)抵達法國。 

  • His Role in the Article
Desnoyers is the primary source of the "Relation" (report) that Jussieu initially intended to publish.

Desnoyers 是 Jussieu 最初打算發表的「報告」(Relation)的主要來源。 

    • The Eyewitness: He was one of the very few Frenchmen of that era to have actually traveled a few days' journey inland from the port of Mocha to see the plants where they were cultivated.

    • The Informant: He passed his observations to M. Gaudron, a Master Apothecary in Saint-Malo, who then forwarded them to Jussieu in Paris.

    • 目擊者:他是那個時代極少數真正從摩卡港出發,跋涉數日深入內陸,親眼目睹植物栽培地的法國人之一。

    • 資訊提供者:他將自己的觀察告知了聖馬洛的藥劑師高德龍 Gaudron,高德龍先生又將資訊轉交給了身在巴黎的朱西厄。
The "Imperfect" Source: Jussieu notes that while Desnoyers’ information was valuable, he decided to "suppress" (discard) the report in favor of his own study. This wasn't necessarily because Desnoyers was wrong, but because Jussieu believed that observing the live tree in the Royal Garden was scientifically superior to a surgeon's travel notes.

「不完善」的來源:Jussieu 指出,儘管德諾耶的資訊很有價值,但他還是決定「壓制」(捨棄)這份報告,轉而採用自己的研究。這並非一定是因為德諾耶錯了,而是因為朱西厄認為,在皇家花園中觀察活樹比外科醫生的旅行筆記更具科學性。 

  • Why Jussieu chose his own study over Desnoyers?
Desnoyers was a Surgeon, not a Botanist. In the 18th century, a surgeon was trained to look at the uses of plants (medicine), whereas a botanist like Jussieu was interested in the structure of the plant (taxonomy). Jussieu likely found Desnoyers' description of the flowers and seeds too vague for a formal academic paper.

Desnoyers 是外科醫生,而非植物學家。在18世紀,外科醫師接受的訓練著重於研究植物的用途(藥用),而像朱西厄這樣的植物學家則更關注植物的結構(分類學)。朱西厄可能認為Desnoyers 對花和種子的描述過於籠統,不適合發表正式的學術論文。 

  • Historical Context  

Desnoyers represents the "intelligence gathering" phase of French coffee history. Before the French could start their own coffee colonies, they relied on people like Desnoyers to confirm where the trees grew, how much water they needed, and how the Arabs harvested them. This information was vital for the eventual mission to transplant coffee to the French West Indies.

德斯諾耶代表了法國咖啡發展史上的「情報收集」階段。在法國人建立自己的咖啡種植園之前,他們需要依靠像德斯諾耶這樣的人來確認咖啡樹的生長地點、需水量以及阿拉伯人的採摘方式。這些資訊對於最終將咖啡移植到法屬西印度群島至關重要。 

 

3. Mrs. Rai & Dale

John Ray (1627–1705) John Ray is often called the "Father of English Natural History." He was a massive influence on Jussieu and later on Linnaeus. His Contribution: Ray was the first to provide a biological definition of a species. He moved away from classifying plants by their uses (like "medicinal" vs. "edible") and instead looked at their physical structures.

Samuel Dale (1659–1739) Samuel Dale was a physician, apothecary, and a close friend and collaborator of John Ray. His Contribution: He is best known for his book "Pharmacologia" (1693), which was a definitive guide to the medicinal uses of plants and substances.

約翰雷(1627–1705)約翰雷常被稱為「英國博物學之父」。他對朱西厄和後來的林奈都產生了巨大的影響。他的貢獻:雷是第一個對物種進行生物學定義的人。他摒棄了根據植物用途(例如“藥用”與“食用”)進行分類的方法,轉而研究它們的物理結構。

塞繆爾·戴爾(1659–1739)塞繆爾·戴爾是一位醫生、藥劑師,也是約翰·雷的摯友和合作者。他的貢獻:他最著名的著作是《藥理學》(169​​3),這是一本關於植物和物質藥用價值的權威指南。



4. Rauvolf

Leonhard Rauwolf (1535–1596) The "Chaube" Description: In his book, Rauwolf described a drink called "Chaube" (coffee) that he saw in Aleppo. He described it as being "black as ink" and noted that the locals drank it early in the morning in public places to help with stomach illnesses. A Pioneer: the first modern botanist to systematically collect and describe the flora of the Near East. A Collector brought back a massive herbarium of over 800 plants, which is still preserved at the University of Leiden.

萊昂哈德·勞沃爾夫 (1535–1596) “咖啡”的描述:勞沃爾夫在他的書中描述了一種名為“咖啡”(Chaube)的飲品,這是他在阿勒頗見到的。他形容這種飲品“黑如墨汁”,並指出當地人會在清晨在公共場所飲用,以緩解胃病。先驅者:他是第一位有系統地收集和描述近東植物的現代植物學家。收藏家:他帶回了一份包含800多種植物的大型植物標本集,至今仍保存在萊頓大學。

前面文章的 1.1 Leonhard Rauwolf (1535 - 1596).



5. Bauhins

Jean Bauhin: (1541–1613)Famous for his work Historia Plantarum Universalis, a massive encyclopedia that attempted to describe every known plant.

Gaspard Bauhin: (1560–1624)The younger brother, famous for his Pinax Theatri Botanici. He is credited with the revolutionary idea of using a genus and species name—a "binomial" system that Linnaeus later perfected.

讓‧鮑欣 (Jean Bauhin):(1541–1613) 以其著作《世界植物誌》(Historia Plantarum Universalis) 而聞名,這是一部試圖描述所有已知植物的巨著。

加斯帕德·鮑欣 (Gaspard Bauhin):(1560–1624) 是讓·鮑欣的弟弟,以其著作《植物劇場圖譜》(Pinax Theatri Botanici) 而聞名。他被認為是使用屬名和種名這一革命性理念的提出者——這種「二名法」系統後來被林奈完善。

前面文章的 1.3 Les Bauhins.

  


6. Bernier

"Bernier" refers to François Bernier (1620–1688), a famous French physician, philosopher, and traveler. He is a significant figure in history for being one of the first Europeans to provide detailed eyewitness accounts of the Mughal Empire in India, where he served as the personal physician to the Mughal crown prince Dara Shikoh and later the Emperor Aurangzeb.

「貝爾尼埃」指的是弗朗索瓦·貝爾尼埃(1620–1688),一位著名的法國醫生、哲學家和旅行家。他是歷史上的重要人物,因為他是最早對印度莫臥兒帝國進行詳細目擊記錄的歐洲人之一。他曾擔任莫臥兒皇太子達拉·希科的私人醫生,後來又擔任奧朗則布皇帝的私人醫生。

  • Why Jussieu Mentions Him

Jussieu cites Bernier to highlight the botanical confusion that existed before scientists had live coffee trees to study. Specifically:

The "Creeping Plant" Theory: Jussieu notes that Bernier "suspected" the coffee plant was a creeping plant similar to Bindweed (Liseron).

 朱西厄引用貝尼埃的觀點,是為了強調在科學家擁有活體咖啡樹進行研究之前,人們對咖啡樹的植物學認知存在著許多混亂。具體來說:

「匍匐植物」理論:朱西厄指出,貝爾尼埃「懷疑」咖啡樹是一種類似旋花(Liseron)的匍匐植物。

Why Bernier thought this: During his travels through the Middle East (Egypt, Arabia, and India) between 1656 and 1669, Bernier saw coffee being consumed and traded, but he likely never saw a coffee plantation in the highlands of Yemen. He may have mistaken a different climbing plant for coffee or relied on faulty descriptions from locals.

The "Lettre sur le café": Bernier wrote a famous letter about coffee that was included in Philippe Sylvestre Dufour's 1685 book, Traités nouveaux et curieux du café, du thé et du chocolat. This was one of the "imperfect" accounts Jussieu was trying to correct with his 1715 memoir.

貝爾尼埃為何會有此想法:1656年至1669年間,貝爾尼埃遊歷中東(埃及、阿拉伯和印度),目睹了咖啡的消費和交易,但他很可能從未在也門高原見過咖啡種植園。他或許將另一種攀緣植物誤認為咖啡,或依賴當地人不準確的描述。

《論咖啡》:貝爾尼埃寫了一封關於咖啡的著名信件,收錄於菲利普·西爾維斯特·杜福爾1685年出版的《咖啡、茶和巧克力新奇趣聞錄》(Traités nouveaux et curieux du café, du thé et du chocolat)一書中。這正是朱西厄在1715年回憶錄中試圖糾正的「不完美」的記載之一。

  • Who was François Bernier?

The Traveler: He spent 12 years in the East. His book, Voyages de F. Bernier, was a bestseller in the 17th century and remains a primary source for historians of India today.

旅行家:他在東方生活了12年。他的著作《F. Bernier遊記》在17世紀風靡一時,至今仍是印度歷史學家的重要參考資料。

The Philosopher: He was a student and close friend of the philosopher Pierre Gassendi. He was part of the intellectual circle of Paris that included Molière and Cyrano de Bergerac.

The Scientist: He is also known for writing one of the first papers attempting to classify the human "races" based on physical characteristics (published in the Journal des sçavans in 1684).

哲學家:他是哲學家皮耶‧伽桑狄的(Pierre Gassendi.)學生和摯友。他也是巴黎知識分子圈子的一員,該圈子還包括莫里哀和西哈諾·德·貝熱拉克(Molière and Cyrano de Bergerac)。

科學家:他也因撰寫了最早嘗試根據體貌特徵對人類「種族」進行分類的論文之一而聞名(該論文發表於1684年的《學者雜誌》)。

  • Jussieu's Point

By mentioning a famous intellectual like Bernier, Jussieu is showing that even the smartest and most traveled men of the previous generation were guessing about the nature of coffee. Jussieu uses Bernier's "Bindweed" error to prove that direct observation in the Royal Garden is the only way to achieve true scientific accuracy.

透過提及像貝尼埃這樣一位著名的知識分子,朱西厄表明,即使是上一代最聰明、見多識廣的人,也只能猜測咖啡的本質。朱西厄利用貝尼埃的「旋花」謬誤來證明,在皇家花園進行直接觀察才是獲得真正科學準確性的唯一途徑。

 

 

7. M. de Resson Lieutenant-General

In the text, M. de Resson refers to Jean-Baptiste-Sébastien de Ressons (1660–1735). He was a high-ranking French military officer and an influential figure in the early history of coffee in France.

文中提到的 M. de Resson 指的是讓-巴蒂斯特-塞巴斯蒂安·德·雷松(Jean-Baptiste-Sébastien de Ressons,1660–1735)。他是法國高級軍官,也是法國咖啡早期發展史上的重要人物。

  • Who was he?

De Ressons lived a "double life" typical of the Enlightenment:

德·雷松過著啟蒙時代典型的「雙重生活」:

The Soldier: Professionally, he was the Lieutenant-General of Artillery. He was a renowned expert in military engineering, ballistics, and the chemistry of gunpowder, serving under King Louis XIV.

The Scientist: Personally, he was an "Amateur de la Botanique" (a lover of botany). He was an "Associé Libre" of the Royal Academy of Sciences, a title given to distinguished individuals who contributed to science alongside their primary careers.

軍人:他的職業是砲兵中將。他是一位著名的軍事工程、彈道學和火藥化學專家,曾效力於路易十四國王麾下。

科學家:他是一位「植物學愛好者」(Amateur de la Botanique)。他是法國皇家科學院的「自由會員」(Associé Libre),這一頭銜授予那些在主要職業之外也為科學做出傑出貢獻的人士。

  • His specific role in your text

Jussieu highlights de Ressons to clarify how the coffee plant first took root in France:

朱西厄著重介紹了德·雷松,以闡明咖啡樹最初是如何在法國紮根的:

The First Importer: While the famous "gift" from the Mayor of Amsterdam (M. Pancras) arrived in 1714, de Ressons had actually secured a coffee plant from Holland shortly before that. He used his personal connections as a high-ranking official to obtain it.

第一位進口者:雖然著名的阿姆斯特丹市長(潘克拉斯先生)的「禮物」是在1714年抵達的,但德·雷松實際上在此之前不久就從荷蘭獲得了一株咖啡樹。他利用自己作為高級官員的人脈關係獲得了這株咖啡樹。

Act of Generosity: Jussieu notes that de Ressons "deprived himself" of this rare and valuable plant by donating it to the Jardin du Roi (now the Jardin des Plantes in Paris). At the time, owning a live coffee plant was a massive status symbol for a private collector; giving it to the state allowed scientists like Jussieu to study it for the public good.

慷慨之舉:朱西厄指出,德·雷松將這株珍稀植物捐贈給了國王花園(現為巴黎植物園),從而「放棄了」自己擁有它的權利。在當時,擁有一株活的咖啡樹對於私人收藏家來說是身份的象徵;將其捐贈給國家,使得像朱西厄這樣的科學家能夠為了公眾利益對其進行研究。

The "Improductive" Plant: Interestingly, other historical records suggest de Ressons’ original plant was somewhat sickly and didn't fruit well. This is why Jussieu emphasizes that the later gift from M. Pancras was so important—it was the healthy, fruiting specimen that allowed for the detailed botanical description you are reading.

「不結果實」的植株:有趣的是,其他歷史記錄表明,德·雷松最初的植株有些病弱,結果也不多。這就是為什麼朱西厄強調潘克拉斯先生後來的禮物如此重要——正是這株健康且結果實的植株,才使得您現在所讀到的詳盡植物學描述成為可能。

  • Historical Context

De Ressons represents the era when botanical knowledge was a matter of national security and prestige. By bringing the first plant to the Royal Garden, he set the stage for the French to eventually cultivate coffee in their own colonies (like Martinique), breaking the Dutch and Arab monopolies on the bean.

德雷松代表著一個植物學知識關乎國家安全與聲望的時代。他將第一株咖啡樹帶到皇家花園,為法國最終在其殖民地(如馬提尼克島)種植咖啡奠定了基礎,打破了荷蘭和阿拉伯對咖啡豆的壟斷。

  • Why the names look different:

You likely had trouble finding him because Jussieu uses a shortened aristocratic shorthand ("M. de Resson"), while Wikipedia uses his full formal name: Jean-Baptiste Deschiens de Ressons. 

您可能很難找到他的名字,是因為朱西厄使用了貴族式的縮寫(“M. de Resson”),而維基百科則使用了他的全名:讓-巴蒂斯特·德謝恩·德雷松。

In the 18th century, it was common for high-ranking members of the Academy to be referred to simply by their title and estate name (Ressons) rather than their full family name (Deschiens).

在18世紀,人們通常用頭銜和莊園名稱(Ressons)來稱呼學院的高級成員,而不是使用完整的姓氏(Deschiens)。

They are exactly the same person. The confusion arises because in 18th-century records, it was common for names and titles to be spelled in different ways depending on the context (military, scientific, or legal).

他們指的是同一個人。之所以會產生混淆,是因為在18世紀的記錄中,姓名和頭銜的拼寫方式會根據語境(軍事、科學或法律)而有所不同。

  • Here's why both names are used:

The family name (Deschiens): His full birth name was Jean-Baptiste Deschiens. "Deschiens" was his family name (his father was Pierre Deschiens, a secretary to the king).

 姓氏(Deschiens):他的全名是讓-巴蒂斯特·德尚(Jean-Baptiste Deschiens)。 「Deschiens」是他的姓氏(他的父親是皮埃爾·德尚(Pierre Deschiens),國王的秘書)。

The title of ownership (de Ressons): As was customary among the French nobility and upper bourgeoisie, he added the name of his estate or property to distinguish himself. Ressons (sometimes spelled without the "s") was the name of the land associated with his family.

所有權頭銜(de Ressons):按照法國貴族和上層資產階級的慣例,他會在名字後面加上自己莊園或財產的名稱以示區別。 Ressons(有時拼字中不帶“s”)是他家族擁有的土地的名稱。

The compound name (Sébastien): In many academic documents and eulogies (such as those from the Academy of Sciences), he is identified as Jean-Baptiste-Sébastien to formally differentiate him from other family members or simply due to the protocol of the time.

複合名(塞巴斯蒂安):在許多學術文獻和悼詞(例如科學院的悼詞)中,他被稱為讓-巴蒂斯特-塞巴斯蒂安,這既是為了正式地將他與其他家庭成員區分開來,也是出於當時的禮儀規範。

In Jussieu's article: Jussieu refers to him simply as "M. de Resson" because in the circle of the Royal Academy of Sciences, he was primarily known by his title and military rank (Lieutenant General of Artillery).

在朱西厄的文章中:朱西厄只稱他為“德雷松先生”,因為在皇家科學院的圈子裡,他主要以其頭銜和軍銜(砲兵中將)為人所知。

 

2026/01/23

關於 Memoires de l'Academie des Science 1713 裡的咖啡(1)

這幾天終於找到了 1715  Memoires de l'Academie des Science (link

裡面有著學者 

Antoine de Jussieu (1686-1750)  Histoire du Café  (page 291-299)


一份早期關於咖啡的科學論述


貓先生的咖啡之旅 group 長期 banner (第二行,將咖啡描述為 Jasminum Arabicum),就是從這篇文章取出的


這位學者被視為 "The first recorded taxonomic description of coffee” 也是這篇文章

之前這個blog 文章:一些巴黎的咖啡之八:Jardin des Plantes 也有一些紀錄

這次終於拿到整篇文章花了一些時間把影像校對成文字,這裡記錄一些有趣的部分


1. 文章提及的在 Antoine de Jussieu 之前的咖啡文獻

嗯,學術文章一開始果然該做領域的回顧.

文章寫了分別有 Rauvolf, Prosper Alpin & Les Bauhins.但是 Antoine de Jussieu 質疑前人對於這個植物是否有完整的檢驗.這裡他的觀察工作裡使用植物園裡的樣本.(不僅是聽說傳言,或是不完整的樣本)

底下簡介

1.1 Leonhard Rauwolf (1535 - 1596) 的 Der vierte Thail Leonharti Rauwolfen, der Artsney Doctorn, etlicher schöner aussländischer Kreüter

Leonhard Rauwolf 是德國醫生,植物學者,旅行家(黎凡特,兩河流域).1583 發表中紀錄旅程和觀察到的許多植物.描述了 Chaube(圖二左頁,下往上第三行中間)可能是最早用拉丁文記錄的咖啡

 



1.2 Prospero Alpini 

(也被寫為 Prosper Alpinus, Prospero Alpinio 和 Latinized as Prosperus Alpinus, 1553 – 1617)

Prospero Alpini 是威尼斯的醫生,植物學家.曾經到埃及,作為 Padua 植物園園長,記錄了許多當時的藥用植物.他的著作 De Plantis Aegypti liber (Venice, 1592). 有著最早關於咖啡植物的描繪(雖然有人不認同)文章提到名稱『Bon, Ban, Caova』,也提到埃及和阿拉伯人利用它對感冒和生理不順的功用, 

印象中 Bon, Buun, 是Ethiopia Kaffa 這邊的傳統稱呼咖啡的用語.

另外,Prospero Alpini  的這份文獻原件是買得到的,大約 $10,000 (as 2023)

 

1.3 Les Bauhins 

這裡應該是講兩位 Johann Bauhins (1541–1613) Gaspard Bauhins (1560–1624).

他們的父親 Jean Bauhins 為法國醫生.因為信仰轉換遷移到瑞士,兩兄弟皆為出生於瑞士的醫生與植物學家.(當年的醫學似乎很依賴使用藥草) Historia plantarum universalis (1650)與 Pinax theatri botanici (1623) 是非常早期的植物學,分類學巨作.建立的系統和分類名稱許多被 Linnaeus 繼續使用.

這兩本巨作好想要啊,之後慢慢挖掘!!



2. 關於歷史的部分:

描述了咖啡怎麼進入歐洲人的世界.荷蘭人由 Mokka 帶到 Batavia(荷蘭東印度公司首都,現在雅加達)再帶到阿姆斯特丹花園.後面如何由阿姆斯特丹帶到法國,巴黎的皇家花園.提到了一位叫 M. de Resson的軍人.



不過要小心的是,咖啡除了經由荷蘭人離開阿拉伯半島,還有一條路線是由印度出來的.這條比較少被描述.

3. 接著描述了植物學的部分:(用 translator 翻譯)

我們將這株植物命名為阿拉伯茉莉(Jasminum Arabicum. Lauri folio, cujus semen apud nos Café dicitur, Jasmin d'Arabie, à feüilles de Laurier,)當它種植於花園,有五英尺高, 沿著樹幹從一個測生長到另一個空間的分支會兩兩相對,並以一對交叉的方式排列。 它們柔軟,圓形,間隔處有節,樹幹也有非常細的白色樹皮,乾燥時會破裂。 木材有點硬,有甜味。 下部分枝通常比較簡單,並且比生長於樹幹的上部分枝呈現更水平地延伸,這些分枝從葉腋開始分為其他較小的分枝,並保持與樹幹相同的順序。 兩者總是裝有完整的葉子,輪廓上沒有鋸齒或鋸齒狀結構,兩端尖銳,兩兩相對,從樹枝的結中露出,類似於亞倫月桂的葉子,其區別在於它們不那麼鋒利、通常更寬,末端更尖,經常向一側傾斜; 它們的上面是美麗的亮綠色,下面是淡綠色.正在萌芽的則呈黃綠色; 它們的邊緣是波浪形的,這可能是耕種造成的,最後它們的味道並不芳香,只是草的味道。


長度為『hauteur de cinq pieds』 使用英尺描述,有意思.
接者繼續描述葉,花,果,種子,更多細節.


根據完整的型態觀察,分類上 Antoine de Jussieu 認為咖啡不能不歸類進茉莉屬(genre)!!




這個想法也與阿姆斯特丹植物學教授 Commelin 一致.


這位 Commelin 應該是知名的荷蘭植物學家族 Commelin,鴨跖草屬名就是用這家族命名的.但是看文獻討論都是 Johann 與 Kasper.這問 M. Commelin 不太確定是誰.不知道是不是傳聞林奈惡意下的家族三人較無名的那位?(two beautiful, larger blue petals, and a third small, barely formed white petal.




接著 Antoine de Jussieu 解釋,只要觀察過果實,就可以破除咖啡豆(bean)長在豆莢這個想法.同時他認為這個植物和 Rauvolf說 『Avicenne 描述的 Bunk Rhases 描述的 Bunca』是不同的東西.


3.1 Avicenne:Ibn Sina (Arabic: اِبْن سِینَا, romanized: Ibn Sīnā; 980 - 1037) 伊斯林黃金時期的哲學家,醫生.工作覆蓋了天文學、煉金術、地理,地質學、心理學、伊斯蘭神學、邏輯、數學、物理和詩歌作品.


文章說Avicenne 使用『Bunk』描述咖啡但是 其他文獻說他描述的是『bunchum』


3.2 Rhases 描述的 Bunca



4. 一些結論:

Antoine de Jussieu 接著解釋為什麼前人對於這個植物的描述有誤.很可能是因為缺乏某些植物的部分,或是不同部位的相對位置不正確影響了前人的判斷.

他很確認這個植物來自阿拉伯區域,但是應該原生於一個叫『Zedia』的地方.Zedia 離 Mokka 港口有幾天的距離.

(雖然自己植物園的這株植物只有五英尺高,但是在他的原生區域甚至是Batavia,它可以長到四十英尺(12 meter)不知道他手中的是不是 drawf化之後的品種,還是還沒長大.但是長到。 40 feet 真的很像kaffa 那邊的植物.

接著描述,一年四季都可以看到國是,幾乎總是有花,每年有兩到三次都收成,老樹結果較少,植物從第三到第四年開始開始結果.這現象已經在之前報告過了, M. Clyve Anglois, & citées par M. Sloane dans les Transactions Philosophiques d'Angleterre de l'année 1694.

Starmaya 和 夏曼艾克-Xaman Ek (edit with AI)

Starmaya

第一次喝到這個品種 (2025 Aug)

Recently, I have My first sip with this coffee variety (August 2025).

看名字直譯「瑪雅之星」Star-Maya 但是轉念一想

這不就像把 
Lovecraft 克蘇魯「Great Old One」翻譯成「很棒很老的那個」一樣嘛

我來想想如何信達雅可以和「舊日支配者」並列的好名字🤔

目前想到瑪雅有名的星神,夏曼艾克(Xaman Ek, The Merchant’s Guide


The name could be literally translated to "Maya star" but as I thought about it, a direct translation felt… uninspired. It’s a bit like translating Lovecraft’s "Great Old One" as "A big Old Person"—technically correct, but the soul is lost in the process.

Xaman Ek? Maybe. The famous ancient Mayan god of travelers, merchants, and the North Star

Let's try to have explore about it.



1. 夏曼艾克(
Xaman Ek, The Merchant’s Guide):

在瑪雅神話中,薩曼·埃克是北極星之神。他通常被描繪成鼻子扁平,頭上有獨特的黑色斑紋。他的名字由一個象形文字書寫而成 "他自己的臉" 酷似一隻猴子。這個象形文字前面有一個前綴,代表“北方之支撐”,鞏固了他作為北極星之神的身份。

In Mayan mythology, Xaman Ek is the God of the North Star. He is often depicted with a snub nose and distinct black markings on his head. His name is written with a single hieroglyph—his own face—which bears a striking resemblance to a monkey. This glyph is preceded by a prefix representing the "Support of the North," cementing his identity as the deity of the pole star.

在一些地區,Xaman Ek 也被稱為「商人的嚮導」。這很可能是因為在貝登和猶加敦半島的緯度,北極星是唯一全年不變的天體。據說,古代的商人會在路邊的祭壇前駐足,向他獻上香火,祈求平安度過夜晚。

In some regions, Xaman Ek is also known as the "Guide of the Merchants." This likely stems from the fact that at the latitudes of Petén and the Yucatán Peninsula, the North Star is the only celestial body that remains fixed throughout the year. It is said that ancient merchants would pause at altars along the roadside to offer him incense, seeking safe passage through the night.

2025/12/24

AI 整理的 Scott Agricultural Laboratories (1) The Scott Agricultural Laboratories: A Botanical and Historical Monograph on the Origins of Kenya’s Coffee Germplasm

The Scott Agricultural Laboratories: A Botanical and Historical Monograph on the Origins of Kenya’s Coffee Germplasm

斯科特農業實驗室:肯亞咖啡種質起源的植物學與歷史專題著作


Executive Summary


The emergence of Kenya as a preeminent origin for high-quality Arabica coffee is not merely a product of favorable geography, but the result of a deliberate, scientifically rigorous selection program orchestrated during the early 20th century. Central to this history is the Scott Agricultural Laboratories (Scott Labs), a colonial institution located in Kabete, on the outskirts of Nairobi. Between 1934 and 1963, this facility served as the crucible for the "SL" series of coffee varieties—cultivars that would come to define the sensory profile of East African coffee.

肯亞之所以能成為優質阿拉比卡咖啡的卓越產地,不僅是得天獨厚的地理環境使然,更是二十世紀初一系列深思熟慮且科學嚴謹的選育計畫之成果。這段歷史的核心是斯科特農業實驗室(Scott Agricultural Laboratories,簡稱 Scott Labs),這是一個位於奈洛比郊區卡貝特(Kabete)的殖民時期機構。在 1934 年至 1963 年間,該設施成為「SL」系列咖啡品種的誕生地——這些栽培品種後來定義了東非咖啡的感官概況。


While the global coffee industry recognizes SL28 and SL34 as the pinnacles of this breeding effort, the historical record reveals a much broader and more complex catalog of selections. The research conducted at Scott Labs was driven by the exigencies of the 1930s—specifically drought and economic instability—and utilized a methodology of single-tree selection from heterogeneous populations of "French Mission" and imported stocks.

雖然全球咖啡產業公認 SL28 和 SL34 是這項育種工作的巔峰之作,但歷史記錄顯示了更廣泛且複雜的選育目錄。斯科特實驗室的研究主要受到 1930 年代迫切需求的驅動——特別是乾旱和經濟不穩定——並採用了從「法國傳教士」(French Mission)和進口種源的異質群體中進行單株選育的方法。


This comprehensive report reconstructs the institutional history of Scott Agricultural Laboratories, details the environmental and administrative context of its operation, and provides an exhaustive inventory of the known SL varieties, including rare and lesser-known selections such as SL4, SL6, SL14, SL17, and SL19. It further explores the genetic paradoxes revealed by modern DNA analysis—specifically the reclassification of SL34 as a Typica lineage—and examines the enduring legacy of these cultivars in the face of modern phytopathological challenges.

本綜合報告重建了斯科特農業實驗室的機構歷史,詳細介紹了其運作的環境和行政背景,並提供了已知 SL 品種的詳盡清單,包括稀有和鮮為人知的選種,如 SL4、SL6、SL14、SL17 和 SL19。報告進一步探討了現代 DNA 分析所揭示的遺傳悖論——特別是 SL34 被重新歸類為鐵比卡(Typica)譜系——並檢視了這些栽培品種在面對現代植物病理挑戰時的持久遺產。



1. The Institutional History of Scott Agricultural Laboratories


To understand the botanical achievements of the SL varieties, one must first understand the institution that birthed them. The Scott Agricultural Laboratories was not established primarily for coffee research; its evolution into a center of agricultural excellence was a process of administrative consolidation and repurposing of colonial infrastructure.

1. 斯科特農業實驗室的機構歷史

要了解 SL 品種的植物學成就,首先必須了解孕育它們的機構。斯科特農業實驗室最初並非主要為了咖啡研究而設立;它轉變為卓越農業中心的過程,是殖民基礎設施行政整合和重新利用的結果。


1.1 From Sanatorium to Scientific Station (1903–1922)


The physical site of the laboratories, located in the Kikuyu highlands approximately seven kilometers northwest of Nairobi, was originally developed for medical purposes. In 1913, the facility was inaugurated as a sanatorium and hospital. It was named the Henry Scott Sanatorium in honor of Dr. Henry Scott, a revered medical missionary associated with the Church of Scotland Mission in Kikuyu, who had passed away shortly before the facility's opening.

The choice of location was strategic for a health facility: the high altitude offered cool, clean air, and the site was removed from the congestion and disease pressures of the growing capital, Nairobi. During the First World War (1914–1918), the facility was commandeered to serve as a military hospital, treating casualties from the East African Campaign. However, in the post-war austerity period, the colonial administration found itself unable to justify the continued expense of operating the site exclusively as a sanatorium. The withdrawal of financial support led to its closure as a medical entity.

In a pivotal moment for Kenyan agriculture, the property—comprising the main buildings and approximately ten acres of prime land—was handed over to the government by Sir Northrup McMillan, a prominent settler and philanthropist, with the stipulation that it be used for "public purposes".

Simultaneously, the Department of Agriculture was seeking to modernize its research capabilities. Since 1908, agricultural trials had been conducted at the Kabete Experimental Farm. By 1922, the government decided to consolidate its scientific efforts. The Kabete Experimental Farm was closed, and its staff and equipment were transferred to the former sanatorium. The hospital wards were converted into laboratories for entomology, mycology, and soil chemistry, and the institution was renamed the Scott Agricultural Laboratories.


1.1 從療養院到科學站(1903–1922)

實驗室位於奈洛比西北約七公里的基庫尤(Kikuyu)高地,最初是為了醫療目的而開發的。1913 年,該設施作為療養院和醫院落成。為了紀念在該設施開放前不久去世、與基庫尤蘇格蘭教會傳教團有關的受人尊敬的醫療傳教士亨利·斯科特(Henry Scott)博士,它被命名為亨利·斯科特療養院(Henry Scott Sanatorium)。   

地點的選擇對醫療設施來說具有戰略意義:高海拔提供了涼爽、乾淨的空氣,且該地點遠離日益發展的首都奈洛比的擁擠和疾病壓力。第一次世界大戰期間(1914-1918),該設施被徵用為軍事醫院,治療東非戰役的傷患。然而,在戰後緊縮時期,殖民政府發現無法證明繼續專門作為療養院運營該地點的費用是合理的。財政支持的撤回導致其作為醫療實體的關閉。   

在肯亞農業的關鍵時刻,這處房產——包括主建築和約十英畝的優質土地——由著名定居者和慈善家諾斯魯普·麥克米倫爵士(Sir Northrup McMillan)移交給政府,條件是必須用於「公共目的」。   

與此同時,農業部正尋求現代化其研究能力。自 1908 年以來,農業試驗一直在卡貝特實驗農場進行。到了 1922 年,政府決定整合其科學工作。卡貝特實驗農場關閉,其員工和設備轉移到前療養院。病房被改建為昆蟲學、真菌學和土壤化學實驗室,該機構更名為斯科特農業實驗室。   


1.2 Geographic and Environmental Characterization


The success of the coffee selection program was inextricably linked to the environmental conditions of the station. Scott Labs was situated in what is now the Upper Kabete area, a region that serves as a benchmark for the "main coffee zone" east of the Rift Valley.

ParameterSpecificationImplications for Coffee Breeding
LocationKabete, Nairobi (approx. 1°15'S, 36°46'E)Equatorial latitude allows for bimodal rainfall and two harvest seasons.
Altitude

~1,740 meters (5,710 feet) 

High elevation promotes slower cherry maturation, enhancing acidity and complex sugar development (the "SL" profile).
Annual Rainfall

~970 mm (average) 

Moderate rainfall necessitated the selection of drought-tolerant varieties, a key driver for the SL program.
Soil Type

Kikuyu Red Loam (Nitisols) 

Deep, well-drained volcanic soils with high acidity, ideal for Arabica cultivation but requiring phosphorus management.

The site's proximity to the private estates of Kiambu and the railway line facilitated easy dissemination of seedlings and direct collaboration with the settler farming community.

1.2 地理與環境特徵


咖啡選育計畫的成功與該站點的環境條件密不可分。斯科特實驗室位於現在的上卡貝特(Upper Kabete)地區,該地區是東非大裂谷以東「主要咖啡帶」的基準。參數規格對咖啡育種的影響位置奈洛比,卡貝特 (約 1°15'S, 36°46'E)赤道緯度允許雙峰降雨模式和兩個收穫季節。海拔~1,740 公尺 (5,710 英尺) 5高海拔促進咖啡櫻桃成熟緩慢,增強酸度和復雜糖分的發展(即「SL」風味概況)。年降雨量~970 毫米 (平均) 5中等降雨量使得選育耐旱品種成為必要,這是 SL 計畫的關鍵驅動力。土壤類型基庫尤紅壤 (Nitisols) 6深厚、排水良好的火山土壤,酸度高,非常適合阿拉比卡種植,但需要磷肥管理。


ParameterSpecificationImplications for Coffee Breeding
LocationKabete, Nairobi (approx. 1°15'S, 36°46'E)Equatorial latitude allows for bimodal rainfall and two harvest seasons.
Altitude

~1,740 meters (5,710 feet) 

High elevation promotes slower cherry maturation, enhancing acidity and complex sugar development (the "SL" profile).
Annual Rainfall

~970 mm (average) 

Moderate rainfall necessitated the selection of drought-tolerant varieties, a key driver for the SL program.
Soil Type

Kikuyu Red Loam (Nitisols) 

Deep, well-drained volcanic soils with high acidity, ideal for Arabica cultivation but requiring phosphorus management.

該地點鄰近基安布(Kiambu)的私人莊園和鐵路線,便利了幼苗的傳播以及與定居者農業社區的直接合作。


1.3 The Era of Specialization (1934–1963)


While the laboratories initially handled a broad spectrum of crops—including wheat, maize, pyrethrum, and sisal—the economic importance of coffee soon demanded dedicated resources. In 1934, the Coffee Section of the Department of Agriculture was formally transferred to Scott Labs. This marked the beginning of the "golden age" of Kenyan coffee research.

Under the leadership of Senior Coffee Officer A.D. Trench and researchers like S. Gillett, the station moved beyond simple agronomy (pruning and spacing trials) into genetic selection. The team included entomologists, mycologists, and soil chemists who provided a holistic approach to crop improvement.

It is crucial to distinguish this government entity from Scott Laboratories Inc., a US-based commercial fermentation company founded in 1933. There is no operational connection between the Kenyan research station and the American supplier of yeast and filtration equipment, despite the shared name and overlapping interests in biological sciences.9

Following Kenya's independence in 1963, the station was renamed the National Agricultural Laboratories (NAL) and later the National Agricultural Research Laboratories (NARL). Today, it operates under the Kenya Agricultural and Livestock Research Organization (KALRO), with coffee-specific research largely devolved to the Coffee Research Institute (CRI) in Ruiru.

1.3 專業化時代(1934–1963)


雖然實驗室最初處理廣泛的作物——包括小麥、玉米、除蟲菊和劍麻——但咖啡的經濟重要性很快就需要專門的資源。1934 年,農業部的咖啡部門正式轉移到斯科特實驗室。這標誌著肯亞咖啡研究「黃金時代」的開始。   

在高級咖啡官員 A.D. Trench 和研究員 S. Gillett 的領導下,該站點從單純的農藝學(修剪和間距試驗)轉向遺傳選育。團隊包括昆蟲學家、真菌學家和土壤化學家,他們提供了作物改良的整體方法。   

必須區分這個政府實體與 Scott Laboratories Inc.,後者是一家成立於 1933 年的美國商業發酵公司。儘管名稱相同且在生物科學領域有重疊的興趣,但這家肯亞研究站與這家酵母和過濾設備的美國供應商之間沒有營運上的關聯。   

1963 年肯亞獨立後,該站更名為國家農業實驗室(NAL),後來更名為國家農業研究實驗室(NARL)。今天,它隸屬於肯亞農業和畜牧業研究組織(KALRO),而咖啡特定的研究主要已轉移到位於魯伊魯(Ruiru)的咖啡研究所(CRI)。   




2. The Selection Paradigm: Responding to Crisis


The genesis of the SL varieties was not a pursuit of flavor for flavor's sake, but a response to an existential crisis in the Kenyan coffee sector. The 1930s were a decade of agricultural trauma in East Africa, characterized by severe droughts, locust invasions, and the economic collapse of the Great Depression.

2. 選育範式:應對危機

SL 品種的誕生並非為了追求風味而追求風味,而是為了應對肯亞咖啡行業的生存危機。1930 年代是東非農業遭受創傷的十年,其特徵是嚴重的乾旱、蝗災和經濟大蕭條的崩潰。   


2.1 The "French Mission" Problem


Prior to the 1930s, the vast majority of Kenyan coffee was of the "French Mission" type. These seeds had been introduced by the Holy Ghost Fathers (Spiritans) from Réunion Island (Bourbon) to their mission stations in Bagamoyo and later Nairobi (St. Austin's) in the late 19th century.

While French Mission coffee was capable of producing excellent cup quality, the population was genetically and phenotypically heterogeneous. A single plantation might contain:

  • Trees of high vigor and trees of low vigor.

  • Trees with broad, green-tipped leaves and trees with narrow, bronze-tipped leaves.

  • Trees highly susceptible to die-back during drought and trees that remained turgid.

The researchers at Scott Labs recognized that this variability was a liability. A farmer could not maximize yield or withstand drought if half the trees in the field were genetically inferior. The goal, therefore, was to identify the superior individuals within these mixed populations—and from other imported stocks—and propagate them as pure-line varieties.

2.1 「法國傳教士」的問題


在 1930 年代之前,絕大多數肯亞咖啡屬於「法國傳教士」(French Mission)類型。這些種子是由聖靈神父(Spiritans)從留尼旺島(波旁島)引入到他們在巴加莫約(Bagamoyo)以及後來奈洛比(聖奧斯汀)的傳教站的,時間是在 19 世紀末。   

雖然法國傳教士咖啡能夠生產出極佳的杯測品質,但該種群在遺傳和表型上是異質的。一個單一的種植園可能包含:

  • 活力高的樹和活力低的樹。
  • 具有寬大綠頂葉片的樹和具有狹窄銅頂葉片的樹。
  • 在乾旱期間極易枯梢的樹和保持飽滿的樹。

斯科特實驗室的研究人員認識到這種變異性是一種負擔。如果田間一半的樹木遺傳劣質,農民就無法最大化產量或抵禦乾旱。因此,目標是在這些混合種群中——以及從其他進口種源中——識別出優良的個體(母樹),並將它們作為純系品種進行繁殖。   


2.2 The Methodology of Single-Tree Selection


The breeding strategy employed at Scott Labs was mass selection followed by pedigree selection (single-tree selection). This differed from hybridization (crossing two varieties to create a new one). Instead, researchers surveyed existing populations, identified outstanding "mother trees," and grew their progeny to see if the desirable traits were heritable.3

Trees were evaluated on three primary criteria:

  1. Drought Resistance: The ability to maintain leaf turgidity and cherry development during moisture stress.

  2. Yield: High production of cherries per hectare.

  3. Cup Quality: The resulting coffee had to meet the rigorous standards of the London auction market, characterized by high acidity and body.

Selected trees were given a serial number prefixed by "SL" (Scott Laboratories). Between 1935 and 1939, forty-two distinct selections were made and subjected to intensive trials.

2.2 單株選育的方法論


斯科特實驗室採用的育種策略是混合選育(mass selection),隨後是譜系選育(單株選育)。這與雜交(將兩個品種雜交以創造新品種)不同。相反,研究人員調查現有種群,識別出色的「母樹」,並種植其後代以查看理想性狀是否可遺傳。   

樹木根據三個主要標準進行評估:

  1. 耐旱性: 在水分脅迫下保持葉片飽滿度和櫻桃發育的能力。   
  2. 產量: 每公頃櫻桃的高產量。   
  3. 杯測品質: 產出的咖啡必須符合倫敦拍賣市場的嚴格標準,以高酸度和醇厚度為特徵。   

被選中的樹木被賦予一個以「SL」(Scott Laboratories)為前綴的序列號。在 1935 年至 1939 年間,共進行了 42 次不同的選育並進行了密集試驗。   


2.3 The 1931 Tanganyika Expedition


A pivotal moment in this history was the tour of Tanganyika (modern-day Tanzania) conducted by A.D. Trench in 1931. Trench visited the Moduli district, an area experiencing severe drought. Amidst the withered vegetation, he observed a specific variety of coffee tree that appeared thriving and healthy. He labeled this population "Tanganyika Drought Resistant" (TDR).

Trench collected seeds from these trees and brought them back to Kabete for trials. This germplasm would become the foundation for the most famous of all Scott Labs creations: SL28.

2.3 1931 年坦噶尼喀考察


這段歷史的一個關鍵時刻是 A.D. Trench 於 1931 年進行的坦噶尼喀(今坦尚尼亞)巡視。Trench 訪問了正經歷嚴重乾旱的莫杜利(Moduli)區。在枯萎的植被中,他觀察到一種特定的咖啡樹看起來生機勃勃且健康。他將這個種群標記為「坦噶尼喀耐旱」(Tanganyika Drought Resistant, TDR)。   

Trench 從這些樹上採集種子並帶回卡貝特進行試驗。這個種質將成為斯科特實驗室最著名的創造——SL28——的基礎。   



3. The Flagship Cultivars: SL28 and SL34


Among the dozens of numbered selections, two emerged as commercially viable and agronomically distinct: SL28 and SL34. These two varieties have become synonymous with Kenyan coffee, yet their histories and genetics are fundamentally different.

3. 旗艦栽培品種:SL28 和 SL34

在數十個編號的選育中,有兩個在商業可行性和農藝獨特性上脫穎而出:SL28 和 SL34。這兩個品種已成為肯亞咖啡的代名詞,但它們的歷史和遺傳背景卻截然不同。


3.1 SL28: The Bourbon Masterpiece

Origin and Selection:

SL28 was selected in 1935 from a single tree within the Tanganyika Drought Resistant (TDR) population established at Scott Labs from Trench's 1931 collection.3 The selection was driven by the tree's exceptional vigor and the high quality of its beans, which were noted for their size and density (boldness).

Botanical Profile:

  • Genetic Group: Bourbon.

  • Growth Habit: Tall and spreading.

  • Foliage: The leaves are broad and typically green-tipped, though the TDR population was known to be mixed, occasionally showing bronze tips.

  • Root System: SL28 possesses a remarkably deep and extensive root system. This allows the tree to tap into sub-soil moisture reserves during dry periods, the primary mechanism of its drought resistance.

Agronomic Performance:

While selected for drought resistance, SL28 is paradoxically fragile regarding disease. It is highly susceptible to:

  • Coffee Berry Disease (CBD) (Colletotrichum kahawae)

  • Coffee Leaf Rust (CLR) (Hemileia vastatrix)

The variety requires intensive management. If left unattended, it can suffer severe die-back. However, its ability to recover after periods of neglect (coppicing and regenerating) is legendary.

Sensory Character:

SL28 defines the "Kenyan" profile. It is prized for:

  • Acidity: High, phosphoric, and citric (grapefruit, lemon).

  • Flavor: Intense blackcurrant (cassis), tomato (umami), and tropical fruits.

  • Body: Syrupy and heavy.


3.1 SL28:波旁的傑作

起源與選育: SL28 於 1935 年從斯科特實驗室建立的坦噶尼喀耐旱(TDR)種群中的一棵單株樹中選出,該種群源自 Trench 1931 年的採集。選育是基於該樹卓越的活力及其豆子的高品質,豆子以其尺寸和密度(飽滿)著稱。   

植物學特徵:
  • 遺傳群組: 波旁(Bourbon)。   
  • 生長習性: 高大且開展。
  • 葉片: 葉片寬大,通常為綠頂(green-tipped),儘管 TDR 種群已知是混合的,偶爾會顯示銅頂。   
  • 根系: SL28 擁有非常深且廣泛的根系。這使得樹木能夠在乾旱期間汲取底土的水分儲備,這是其耐旱性的主要機制。   

農藝表現: 雖然因耐旱而被選中,但 SL28 在抗病方面卻自相矛盾地脆弱。它對以下疾病高度敏感:
  • 咖啡漿果病 (CBD) (Colletotrichum kahawae)
  • 咖啡葉鏽病 (CLR) (Hemileia vastatrix)

該品種需要密集管理。如果疏於照料,它可能會遭受嚴重的枯梢病。然而,它在被忽視後恢復(截幹再生)的能力是傳奇性的。   

感官特徵: SL28 定義了「肯亞」風味概況。它因以下特點而備受推崇:
  • 酸度: 高、磷酸質和柑橘味(葡萄柚、檸檬)。
  • 風味: 強烈的黑醋栗(cassis)、番茄(鮮味)和熱帶水果。
  • 醇厚度: 糖漿感和厚重。   

3.2 SL34: The Typica Enigma

Origin and Selection:

SL34 was selected between 1935 and 1939 from a single tree on the Loresho Estate in Kabete.8 The field in which it was found was labeled "French Mission," leading to the long-standing assumption that SL34 was, like SL28, a Bourbon derivative.

The Genetic Revelation:

Recent molecular genetic analyses by World Coffee Research and other bodies have overturned nearly a century of botanical dogma. DNA fingerprinting has confirmed that SL34 belongs to the Typica genetic group, not Bourbon.15

Implications:

This discovery suggests that the "French Mission" seeds distributed by the missionaries were not a pure line. It is likely that the missionaries, traveling from Réunion via Aden (Yemen) or India, inadvertently mixed Typica seeds into their Bourbon stocks, or that the Loresho Estate had been replanted with material of mixed origin. This explains why SL34 exhibits distinct morphological differences from SL28.24

Botanical Profile:

  • Growth Habit: Tall, with semi-erect laterals (a Typica trait).

  • Foliage: Distinctive bronze-tipped young leaves (anthocyanin pigmentation), a characteristic often associated with Typica varieties.2

  • Adaptation: SL34 is exceptionally adapted to high altitudes (above 1,500m) with good rainfall. It often outperforms SL28 in the highest coffee zones of Kiambu and Nyeri.13

Sensory Character:

In the cup, SL34 is often indistinguishable from SL28 to the casual drinker, which is why they are frequently blended. However, trained cuppers note:

  • Body: Often heavier and creamier than SL28.

  • Acidity: Complex, but sometimes perceived as slightly softer or sweeter.

  • Finish: Long and sweet with dark berry notes.


3.2 SL34:鐵比卡的謎團

起源與選育: SL34 是在 1935 年至 1939 年間從卡貝特 Loresho 莊園的一棵單株樹中選出的。發現它的田地被標記為「法國傳教士」,導致長期以來人們假設 SL34 和 SL28 一樣,是波旁的衍生物。   

遺傳啟示: 世界咖啡研究組織(World Coffee Research)和其他機構最近的分子遺傳分析推翻了近一個世紀的植物學教條。DNA 指紋分析證實 SL34 屬於 鐵比卡(Typica) 遺傳群組,而非波旁。   

意涵: 這一發現表明傳教士分發的「法國傳教士」種子並非純系。很可能傳教士在從留尼旺經亞丁(葉門)或印度旅行時,無意中將鐵比卡種子混入了他們的波旁種群中,或者 Loresho 莊園曾用混合來源的材料重新種植。這解釋了為什麼 SL34 表現出與 SL28 不同的形態差異。   

植物學特徵:
  • 生長習性: 高大,側枝半直立(鐵比卡特徵)。
  • 葉片: 獨特的銅頂嫩葉(花青素沉著),這是通常與鐵比卡品種相關的特徵。   
  • 適應性: SL34 非常適應高海拔(1,500 公尺以上)且降雨量充足的環境。在基安布和涅里的最高咖啡區,它的表現通常優於 SL28。   

感官特徵: 在杯測中,對於非專業飲用者來說,SL34 通常與 SL28 難以區分,這就是為什麼它們經常被混合。然而,受過訓練的杯測師指出:
  • 醇厚度: 通常比 SL28 更厚重、更奶油感。
  • 酸度: 複雜,但有時被認為稍顯柔和或更甜。
  • 餘韻: 悠長且帶有甜味和深色漿果味。   



4. The Complete Catalog: Beyond the Famous Two

The Scott Labs archives contain references to numerous other "SL" varieties that were tested but failed to achieve widespread commercial dominance. Reconstructing this list provides insight into the rigorous culling process of the selection program.

4. 完整目錄:除了著名的兩者之外

斯科特實驗室的檔案包含許多其他「SL」品種的參考資料,這些品種雖然經過測試但未能獲得廣泛的商業主導地位。重建這份清單可以深入了解選育計畫的嚴格篩選過程。

4.1 The Disease-Resistant Donors

Some SL varieties, while not famous for flavor, possess valuable genetic resistance that has been crucial for modern breeding.

  • SL4:

    • Significance: This variety is a genetic cornerstone of the modern Kenyan coffee industry. It serves as a primary donor of Coffee Berry Disease (CBD) resistance in the composite variety Batian.

    • Traits: While its cup quality is generally not considered "Fine Cup" standard compared to SL28, its hardiness against Colletotrichum kahawae makes it indispensable for breeding programs.

  • SL6:

    • Origin: Bred from a single Kent tree (an Indian selection of Typica).

    • Morphology: Medium-wide leaves with coppery tips.

    • Traits: During the 1930s trials, SL6 was a "big favorite" of the Scott Labs staff due to its immense productivity and apparent resistance to certain races of leaf rust.

    • Status: It was eventually superseded by K7 (selected at Legetet Estate) which showed broader ecological adaptability, but SL6 remains a testament to the potential of the Typica lineage for yield.

4.1 抗病捐贈者

一些 SL 品種雖然不以風味聞名,但擁有寶貴的遺傳抗性,這對現代育種至關重要。

  • SL4:
    • 重要性: 該品種是現代肯亞咖啡產業的遺傳基石。它是複合品種 Batian 中咖啡漿果病 (CBD) 抗性的主要捐贈者。   
    • 特徵: 雖然與 SL28 相比,其杯測品質通常不被視為「優質杯測」標準,但其對抗 Colletotrichum kahawae 的強韌性使其在育種計畫中不可或缺。   
  • SL6:
    • 起源: 培育自單株 Kent 樹(鐵比卡的印度選種)。   
    • 形態: 中寬葉片,帶有銅色尖端。
    • 特徵: 在 1930 年代的試驗中,SL6 因其巨大的生產力和對某些葉鏽病種群的明顯抗性,是斯科特實驗室工作人員的「大熱門」。   
    • 地位: 它最終被 K7(在 Legetet 莊園選出)所取代,K7 顯示出更廣泛的生態適應性,但 SL6 仍證明了鐵比卡譜系在產量方面的潛力。   

4.2 The Regional Success Stories

  • SL14:

    • Origin: Selected in 1936 from a tree labeled Drought Resistant II (D.R. II).

    • Genetics: Confirmed as Typica-related.

    • Geography: While it played a minor role in Kenya, SL14 found its ideal terroir in Uganda, particularly on the slopes of Mount Elgon. It is today a major specialty variety in Uganda.

    • Agronomy: It is noted for extreme drought tolerance—potentially exceeding that of SL28 in lower altitudes—and a distinct susceptibility to CBD if grown in cold, wet conditions. Its seeds are rounder, resembling Bourbon, despite its Typica genetics.

    • Cup Profile: Clean, citric acidity with notes of butterscotch and pineapple.

4.2 區域成功案例

  • SL14:
    • 起源: 1936 年從一棵標記為 Drought Resistant II (D.R. II) 的樹中選出。   
    • 遺傳: 確認與 鐵比卡(Typica) 相關。   
    • 地理: 雖然在肯亞扮演次要角色,但 SL14 在烏干達找到了理想的風土,特別是在艾爾貢山(Mount Elgon)的山坡上。今天它是烏干達主要的精品品種。   
    • 農藝: 它以極佳的耐旱性著稱——在低海拔地區可能超過 SL28——但在寒冷、潮濕的條件下對 CBD 有明顯的易感性。儘管有鐵比卡遺傳背景,其種子較圓,類似波旁。   
    • 杯測概況: 乾淨、柑橘酸度,帶有奶油糖果和鳳梨的風味。   

4.3 The Forgotten and Experimental Lines

Ref. https://genuscoffea.wordpress.com/genus-coffea/

  • SL1: The first recorded selection. It was discarded due to "hypersensitivity to hostile environments," proving too delicate for the rigorous Kenyan climate.

  • SL2: Originated from the Wispers Plantation near Nairobi. Phenotypically similar to Harrar coffees (Ethiopia), with coppery-tipped leaves. It was rejected due to small berry size, which is undesirable for processing and yield.

  • SL3: Selected from French Mission stock at the Ona Plantation in Solai. It proved to have low productivity and extreme sensitivity to leaf rust. Furthermore, its cup quality was deemed inferior to the original French Mission population.

  • SL9: A selection of unknown origin, though its morphology (coppery leaves) suggested a genetic link to Columnaris (a Puerto Rican variety). It yielded well at medium altitudes but was highly susceptible to CBD.

  • SL10: Derived from Harrar stock. While more productive than its parents, it failed to meet the cup quality standards required by the board.

  • SL17:

    • Genetic Significance: Recent advanced genetic mapping has identified SL17 as a member of the "Ethiopian Legacy" cluster, distinct from the main Typica/Bourbon groups. Crucially, it shares a specific genetic marker with wild Arabica populations found on the Boma Plateau in South Sudan.

    • Implication: This suggests SL17 represents a unique domestication pathway, preserving wild diversity that is rare in cultivated Arabica. It is currently being investigated for breeding potential regarding climate resilience.

  • SL19: Often collinear with SL18 in historical sensory analysis clusters. It appears in old records of sensory loading plots but has largely vanished from commercial cultivation.

  • SL26: A cross of the progeny of SL3. It featured small leaves with green tips (Bourbon-like). While it performed well at low altitudes, it was extremely susceptible to CBD, rendering it unviable for widespread release.

4.3 被遺忘與實驗性的品系

  • SL1: 第一個記錄的選種。由於對「惡劣環境過敏」而被捨棄,證明其過於嬌嫩,無法適應嚴酷的肯亞氣候。   
  • SL2: 源自奈洛比附近的 Wispers 種植園。表型類似於 Harrar 咖啡(衣索比亞),帶有銅頂葉片。由於漿果尺寸小(不利於加工和產量)而被拒絕。   

  • SL3: 選自索萊(Solai)Ona 種植園的 法國傳教士 庫存。事實證明其生產力低且對葉鏽病極度敏感。此外,其杯測品質被認為劣於原始的法國傳教士種群。   

  • SL9: 起源不明的選種,儘管其形態(銅色葉片)表明與 Columnaris(波多黎各品種)有遺傳聯繫。它在中海拔地區產量良好,但對 CBD 高度敏感。   

  • SL10: 源自 Harrar 庫存。雖然比其親本更高產,但未能達到委員會要求的杯測品質標準。   

  • SL17:

    • 遺傳意義: 最近的高級遺傳圖譜已將 SL17 識別為 「衣索比亞遺產」(Ethiopian Legacy)群組的成員,與主要的鐵比卡/波旁群組不同。至關重要的是,它與在南蘇丹 Boma 高原 發現的野生阿拉比卡種群共享特定的遺傳標記。   

    • 意涵: 這表明 SL17 代表了一種獨特的馴化途徑,保留了栽培阿拉比卡中罕見的野生多樣性。目前正針對氣候韌性的育種潛力對其進行調查。   

  • SL19: 在歷史感官分析聚類中經常與 SL18 共線。它出現在感官裝載地塊的舊記錄中,但在商業種植中已基本消失。   

  • SL26: SL3 後代的雜交種。特徵是帶有綠頂的小葉片(類似波旁)。雖然在低海拔表現良好,但對 CBD 極度敏感,使其無法廣泛發布。   


4.4 The "SL" Inventory Summary Table


VarietyGenetic GroupOrigin / ParentageKey CharacteristicStatus
SL1UnknownKenya Selected Gen. 1Environmental hypersensitivityDiscarded
SL2Harrar-likeWispers PlantationSmall berries; coppery tipsDiscarded
SL3French MissionOna Plantation (Solai)Low yield; rust susceptibleDiscarded
SL4Hybrid DonorUnknownCBD ResistanceBreeding Parent (Batian)
SL6Typica (Kent)Kent TreeHigh yield; Rust tolerantHistorical/Breeding
SL9UnknownColumnaris-influencedGood yield; CBD susceptibleDiscarded
SL10HarrarHarrar StockPoor cup qualityDiscarded
SL14TypicaDrought Resistant IIExtreme Drought ToleranceCommercial (Uganda)
SL17Ethiopian LegacyBoma Plateau LinkWild Genetic MarkersGenetic Resource
SL19UnknownUnknownSensory DistinctivenessHistorical Record
SL26BourbonSL3 ProgenyLow altitude adaptationDiscarded
SL28BourbonTanganyika D.R.Exceptional Cup / DroughtDominant Commercial
SL34TypicaLoresho (French Mission)High Altitude / Bronze TipDominant Commercial


5. Genetic Legacy and Modern Implications


The work begun at Scott Labs did not end with the release of the SL varieties. The ecological vulnerabilities of SL28 and SL34—specifically their susceptibility to Coffee Berry Disease (CBD) and Leaf Rust (CLR)—became an existential threat to the industry in the late 1960s, particularly after the CBD epidemic of 1968.

5. 遺傳遺產與現代意涵

在斯科特實驗室開始的工作並沒有隨著 SL 品種的發布而結束。SL28 和 SL34 的生態脆弱性——特別是它們對咖啡漿果病 (CBD) 和葉鏽病 (CLR) 的易感性——在 1960 年代後期,特別是在 1968 年 CBD 流行之後,成為該行業的生存威脅。

5.1 The Shift to Ruiru


In 1944, recognizing the need for more extensive field trials, the colonial government purchased Jacaranda Estates in Ruiru (approx. 20 miles north of Scott Labs). This became the Coffee Research Station (CRS), now the Coffee Research Institute (CRI).

While Scott Labs (NARL) shifted focus to general agriculture and soil chemistry, the breeding program at Ruiru took the genetic material identified at Scott Labs and began a hybridization program.

5.1 轉移至魯伊魯


1944 年,認識到需要更廣泛的田間試驗,殖民政府購買了位於魯伊魯(斯科特實驗室以北約 20 英里)的 Jacaranda 莊園。這成為了咖啡研究站(CRS),即現在的咖啡研究所(CRI)。  

當斯科特實驗室(NARL)將重點轉向一般農業和土壤化學時,魯伊魯的育種計畫採用了斯科特實驗室識別的遺傳材料,並開始了雜交計畫。

5.2 K7: The Bridge Variety


Before the complex hybrids, there was K7. Although not an "SL" variety, it was developed during the same era (1936) by R.H. Walker at Legetet Estate in Muhoroni, in collaboration with Scott Labs. Selected from French Mission stock, K7 exhibited inherent tolerance to several races of Leaf Rust. It became the standard recommendation for lower-altitude farms where rust pressure was highest, serving as a bridge between the susceptible SLs and the resistant hybrids.

在複雜的雜交種之前,有 K7。雖然不是「SL」品種,但它是由 R.H. Walker 於同一時期(1936 年)在 Muhoroni 的 Legetet 莊園與斯科特實驗室合作開發的。K7 選自法國傳教士庫存,表現出對幾種葉鏽病種群的固有耐受性。它成為鏽病壓力最高的低海拔農場的標準推薦,充當易感 SL 品種和抗性雜交種之間的橋樑


5.3 Ruiru 11 and Batian: The SL Lineage Continues


The modern Kenyan varieties are not replacements for the SL genetics but rather vehicles for them.

  • Ruiru 11 (Released 1985): A compact F1 hybrid. It uses SL28 and SL34 as the female parents to impart the desirable cup quality. The male parents contribute resistance genes from varieties like Rume Sudan, Timor Hybrid, and K7. This ensures that the "SL profile" is preserved within a disease-resistant chassis.

  • Batian (Released 2010): This variety represents the culmination of the breeding arc. It is a tall, true-breeding variety (unlike the F1 Ruiru 11). Its pedigree is a composite of SL28, SL34, SL4, K7, N39, and Sudan Rume. Here, SL4 plays a critical role as a donor of CBD resistance, proving that even the "failed" commercial varieties of the Scott Labs era contained genetic gold utilized decades later.

5.3 Ruiru 11 和 Batian:SL 譜系的延續


現代肯亞品種並非 SL 遺傳的替代品,而是它們的載體。

  • Ruiru 11(1985 年發布): 緊湊型 F1 雜交種。它使用 SL28 和 SL34 作為母本以賦予理想的杯測品質。父本貢獻了來自 Rume Sudan、Timor Hybrid 和 K7 等品種的抗性基因。這確保了「SL 風味」被保存在抗病架構中   

  • Batian(2010 年發布): 該品種代表了育種弧線的頂點。它是一個高大、純系繁殖的品種(不同於 F1 的 Ruiru 11)。其譜系是 SL28、SL34、SL4、K7、N39 和 Sudan Rume 的複合體。在這裡,SL4 作為 CBD 抗性的捐贈者發揮了關鍵作用,證明了即使是斯科特實驗室時代「失敗」的商業品種,也包含了數十年後被利用的遺傳黃金




6. Conclusion


The Scott Agricultural Laboratories in Kabete stands as a monument to the efficacy of classical plant breeding. In a span of less than ten years (1935–1939), a small team of researchers led by A.D. Trench and S. Gillett surveyed the chaotic genetic landscape of colonial coffee plantations and distilled from them two of the most celebrated cultivars in history: SL28 and SL34.

The "SL" legacy is characterized by a distinct trade-off: the prioritization of sensory quality and drought resistance over disease immunity. This decision, driven by the climatic shocks of the 1930s, endowed Kenya with a unique flavor profile—intense, acidic, and complex—that commands a premium in the global market. However, it also bequeathed a fragility to the sector, necessitating high inputs of fungicides to protect these susceptible trees.

The exhaustive catalog of the SL series—from the Ethiopian genetics of SL17 to the Typica heritage of SL14 and SL34—reveals that the colonial coffee fields were far more diverse than the "French Mission" label suggested. Today, as climate change and pathogens threaten the coffee belt, the genetic repository created at Scott Labs remains vital. Through modern descendants like Batian, the genes identified in Kabete nearly a century ago continue to sustain the livelihood of millions of East African farmers and delight palates worldwide. The Scott Agricultural Laboratories may have changed names and mandates, but its botanical footprint is indelible.

6. 結


位於卡貝特的斯科特農業實驗室是古典植物育種功效的豐碑。在不到十年(1935-1939)的時間裡,由 A.D. Trench 和 S. Gillett 領導的一個小型研究團隊調查了殖民地咖啡種植園混亂的遺傳景觀,並從中提煉出歷史上最著名的兩個栽培品種:SL28 和 SL34。

「SL」遺產的特點是明顯的權衡:優先考慮感官品質和耐旱性,而非疾病免疫力。這項決定受到 1930 年代氣候衝擊的驅動,賦予了肯亞獨特的風味概況——強烈、酸性且複雜——在全球市場上享有溢價。然而,它也給該行業留下了脆弱性,需要大量投入殺菌劑來保護這些易感樹木。

SL 系列的詳盡目錄——從 SL17 的衣索比亞遺傳到 SL14 和 SL34 的鐵比卡傳統——揭示了殖民地咖啡田比「法國傳教士」標籤所暗示的要多樣化得多。今天,隨著氣候變遷和病原體威脅咖啡帶,斯科特實驗室創建的遺傳庫仍然至關重要。通過像 Batian 這樣的現代後代,近一個世紀前在卡貝特識別的基因繼續維持著數百萬東非農民的生計,並取悅著全世界的味蕾。斯科特農業實驗室可能已經更名和改變了任務,但其植物學足跡是不可磨滅的。